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Best Crusty Old School Mentor Quotes

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By Killis Howard
Dec 9, 2007

Half of what I learned in my first two years of climbing outside I learned from people who are politely known where I come from as "characters". Many was the time that I heard some crazy jive fall out of someone's mouth to the tune of my eyebrows snapping upward like a souped up window shade. To wit: any good quotes from a salt-and pepper sage?

Mine: "You never get good at anything unless you practice. You gotta keep practicing until *after* your fingers bleed!"

By Brian Scoggins
From Laramie, WY
Dec 9, 2007

Curiously, the best I've ever heard came from my own lips. In the context though, I was the crusty old veteran mentoring the consummate n00b who's 7 years my senior.

We were at the Gill Seam at Vedauwoo and he noticed the old bolt hole. I explained that the seam used to be a practice aid problem and the bolt made the reach to the first pin placement doable.

He asked why the bolt was chopped and I retorted, perfect deadpan "Because somebody freed it".

By Will A.
From Gunnison, CO
Dec 9, 2007
unnamed crack @ IC

Me-"Man, I keep falling!"

Dave H.-"Well, stop letting go!"

By Allen Hill
From Glenelk, Colorado
Dec 9, 2007
Grimsel Valley, CH

"You don't know shit till you've done a big wall" Doug Scott 1979 to a very green me

By Rob Lipinski
Dec 9, 2007

"if i pushed you off right now, no one would know"...

By Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Dec 9, 2007
Almost inn............

"If it was easy, girls would do it"

My old crew,

back before girls started doing it

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From Oakland, CA
Dec 10, 2007
At Potrero Chico, New Years 2007/08

Me: "Take!!"
The old school guy: "I don't know what that means."

By Scott M. Mossman
Dec 10, 2007
Messing around in RMNP in winter, climbing 5.7 in rubber snow boots and ski gloves.

"That protection will probably stay in(Forrest Copperhead), as long as you don't fall!"

"Oh, I don't know, it's probably a 5.7" (Told to me by a real crusty old timer - John Rosholt - about a route now rated 5.9+/5.10 in Taylor Canyon, Gunnison - after I had to resort to direct aid to get past a move)

Me, "How's that crack?" Crusty Old Climber (Bob Dickerson) "Oh, it hurts so good!"

By Malcolm Daly
From Boulder, CO
Dec 10, 2007

From Bridwell:

I remember when sex was safe and climbing was dangerous.

By Tom Hanson
From Castle Rock, CO
Dec 10, 2007
Busted

Old DLFA quotes from Taylors Falls regulars circa 1975-82

Touron: “Are you rappelling?”
Us: “No, you’re rappelling, we’re appealing”

Park Ranger, upon spotting us with climbing gear headed for the walls below Fort Snelling, where climbing is illegal: “Where are you going with that climbing gear?”
Us: “Climbing gear? What climbing gear? Oh this? Boating. Yes, that’s it. Boating”

Park Ranger, after taking us to park headquarters after catching us sneaking into the park with the objective of illegal camping: “Well, the jail is full so we’re going to let you go, this time, and put you on our warning list. But, you know what will happen if we catch you again?”
Us: “You’ll put us your double secret warning list?”

Touron, inquiring upon seeing us descend from Devils Tower: “Did you make it to the top?
Us: “Yep, sure did, and went for a wonderful swim. The top is hollow like a giant tree stump and it’s filled with water.”

Saint Croix River tour boat passenger, while passing beneath The Which’s Tit: “How can it be raining, there’s not a cloud in the sky?”
Fellow passenger: “Since when is rain yellow?”

Spoken to a party on the adjacent route Icarus, while free soloing The Yellow Spur: "You know my greatest fear of of falling from up here?"
Other party: "No, what?"
"Living"

By rickd
Dec 10, 2007

I only wish this were a mentor quote...

"I may not be able to pull on the smallest of holds, but those I can pull on I can pull on all day long"

-Jimmy Jewel

By Luke Hanley
From Boulder, CO
Dec 11, 2007

An old timer who was tripping on acid while free soloing the Snake Dike on Half Dome told me an acronym i still use today. I guess after a few hundred feet he started to loose his head and just wanted something to clip for his head space. He dreamed up the stick on bolt , and aptly named it the "PPP" - Purely Pscychological Protection. Though few have placed a stick on bolt, most have placed a piece of gear which wouldn't hold a falling bag of kitty shit....that's the PPP

By Scott M. Mossman
Dec 11, 2007
Messing around in RMNP in winter, climbing 5.7 in rubber snow boots and ski gloves.

Mike Morley wrote:
Me: "Take!!" The old school guy: "I don't know what that means."


I resemble that remark.

By Joey Wolfe
Dec 11, 2007

I always run into this guy at Boat Rock in Atlanta smoking Marlboro Reds while showing the gym rats how to pull the moves on V-Hards. He'll be doing some crazy hard mantel, or matching his foot to his hand with a cig hanging out of his mouth while saying his mantra, "All ya gotta do is...." That sh*t cracks me up.

By Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Dec 11, 2007
Chris setting up the rappel in the South-East Gully of Arrowhead.  If anyone cleans that stopper and pin, I'd be glad to have it back.

In response to comments about the large rack he was bringing on a mixed climb first asscent in Glenwood canyon:

"Most of this stuff is just for show. Real protection comes from not falling off." - Jeff Lowe

By Tavis Ricksecker
From flagstaff, az
Dec 11, 2007
happy birthday to you...

"Hardmen don't wear hard hats."

-T. M. Herbert

By Dan Godshall
From Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 11, 2007

"It's not climbing unless you can die doing it"

-Soo, an old Korean born and taught climber who would free solo 5.9 or less and only rope up for 5.10/5.11 R/X around PA, the Gunks, and Adirondacks.

By Healyje
Dec 11, 2007
girl40

Chris Sheridan wrote:
In response to comments about the large rack he was bringing on a mixed climb first asscent in Glenwood canyon: "Most of this stuff is just for show. Real protection comes from not falling off." - Jeff Lowe


And once you climb in Glenwood Canyon you realize half of your placements are just for show...

My personal fav and mantra: 'the deader, the better...'

By Mike McHugh
From Denver, CO
Dec 11, 2007
I wish this was me.

"If I tried to climb it that way, I probably wouldn't be able to get off the ground either."

- Not-so-crusty mentor watching me flail on the bottom of supremacy crack. After my display of "technique", he promptly put on his ancient running shoes and led it.

By Korgil
From Denver CO
Dec 11, 2007
Grahh! There be a human in my Throne!

"If your not Happy, your not climbing enough"

A good one for climbing at the Garden:
"Pull down, not out"

By saxfiend
Administrator
From Atlanta, GA
Dec 11, 2007
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald.

Luke Hanley wrote:
An old timer who was tripping on acid while free soloing the Snake Dike on Half Dome told me an acronym i still use today. I guess after a few hundred feet he started to loose his head and just wanted something to clip for his head space. He dreamed up the stick on bolt , and aptly named it the "PPP" - Purely Pscychological Protection.

Given the fact that he was free-soloing, one assumes he was clipping a PPR (purely psychological rope) to his PPP.

JL

By Deaun Schovajsa
From Arvada, CO
Dec 11, 2007
Deaun tasting the sweet limestone

Seconding a hard pitch, we got into the habit of yelling up "give me some tension" or just "tension", meaning "keep the damn rope tight". I was following my partner on a particularly difficult pitch and couldn't make the move, so I yelled "give me some suction!" That quickly became the standard signal for taking all possible slack from the rope.

By Roger Rumsey
Dec 11, 2007

"If you have to use a stick clip on it then you probably shouldn't be on the climb".

"You can't climb scared".

By Jim Amidon
Dec 11, 2007
What ??

"Never write anything you'll only regret it"

Don Whillians

By Tavis Ricksecker
From flagstaff, az
Dec 11, 2007
happy birthday to you...

Mark Guycan's favorite saying as I nervously knock on hollow death flakes leading yet another chossy grunge pitch in Sedona:

"Bomber!"

By Alex Burton
From Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 11, 2007
Just above the lead only area

If you wait for the right weather, you'll never get out to climb.


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