Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
7. The Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginners Direct T 
Beginners Easy Variation T 
Beginners Route T 
Black Jade T 
Booklet, The T 
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 
Dark Horse T 
Dike Route, The T 
Fingertip Trip T 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 
Interloper  T 
Man O War T 
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 
Ninth Wave, The T 
Pathfinder T 
Sea of Holes T 
Slabs Direct T 
Sliding Board T 
Slipshod T 
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 
Standard Route T 
Stop if you Dare T 
Tidal Wave T,S 
Waiting for Comeau T 
Wave Bye Bye T 
Wave Length T 
Wedge T 
White Wilderness T 
White Zone, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Beginners Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Hebert C Towle and friends 1930's
Page Views: 10,197
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Climbers at both end anchors of P5.


The Beginners Route is just as fun as the Standard Route but sees far less traffic mostly due in my mind to over sight by folks that are just used to climbing the Standard, also there is a bit of a committing section on the 5th pitch where you are required to run it out a bit on friction... So if you are very comfortable on Standard and you think you could keep your wits about you for a pitch of run out 5.5, next time you hit the slabs give this one a try, it really wont let you down...

Pitch 1: Scamper up to the pine tree about 100 feet up on the right end of the slab...

Pitch 2: 5.5 Head left from the tree and gain a crack... Climb the crack over a bulge and when it ends follow a dike to a 2 bolt belay...

Pitch 3: 5.1 follow the easy dike to another 2 bolt belay... you will be looking above you at the right trending arch...

Pitch 4: 5.2 Follow the arch to the right and belay at an anchor near a flake...

Pitch 5: 5.5 Climb up and over the bulge on the flake and on to the slab above... Friction your way up the slab aiming for the corner at the left of the overlaps above you... belay from the bottom of the corner...

Pitch 6: 5.4 climb up the corner with friction and some cracks until you can climb straight up over the steep wall on your right to a pine tree with a thread belay next to a block... This is a comfy scenic spot to chill and take it all in...

Pitch 7: 5.4 Climb around the block and continue up the ramp until you see a dike in the steep wall to your right climb moderately up the dike and on to trees above...

Pitch 8-top (300ft): from here you can chose your own adventures on to the top but if it gets harder than 5.3 find a better way... i like to traverse over on an exposed slab (kinda scary at first) and join standard routes dikes to the top but there are many choices...

Care full route finding may be required on the second half to avoid an epic... Just take your time and bring your guide book...


on the far right side of the slabs look for a big pine tree about 100 feet up the low angle rock...


A standard whitehorse rack...

Photos of Beginners Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another one of MacKenzie
Another one of MacKenzie
Rock Climbing Photo: Zackary(3 years old) at the tree belay
Zackary(3 years old) at the tree belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Another one of his first lead
Another one of his first lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Zackary's first lead
Zackary's first lead
Rock Climbing Photo: MacKenzie starting up
MacKenzie starting up
Rock Climbing Photo: Zackary ready to go
Zackary ready to go
Rock Climbing Photo: Zackary all by himself this time, almost to the tr...
Zackary all by himself this time, almost to the tr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Relic pin on the Crux of P5, Serious psychological...
Relic pin on the Crux of P5, Serious psychological...
Rock Climbing Photo: MacKenzie(4 and a half years old)  at the tree bel...
MacKenzie(4 and a half years old) at the tree bel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 of 'Beginners Route'
Pitch 3 of 'Beginners Route'
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch three on BR
BETA PHOTO: Looking down pitch three on BR
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on pitch 3 or 4 of beginners route...The rig...
BETA PHOTO: Chris on pitch 3 or 4 of beginners route...The rig...
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the top
Almost to the top
Rock Climbing Photo: another one of Zackary
another one of Zackary
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice job
Nice job
Rock Climbing Photo: MacKenzie and I at the top of pitch 1
MacKenzie and I at the top of pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5, a crappy old pin, some serious run out, T...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 5, a crappy old pin, some serious run out, T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Diane enjoying wonderful climbing on P2.
Diane enjoying wonderful climbing on P2.

Comments on Beginners Route Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2016
By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Just climbed this today. I'd agree that it's at least as good as Standard. Less crowded too.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 29, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

Fun route, better time than I expected. Good to simul-climb/solo.
By Pete Johnston
From: Irvine, California
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

Louise and I both really enjoyed this route. Need two ropes for rappels. The locals told us, "no one tops out, the trail down isn't really there." We climbed with one rope, then did a VERY creative rappel to join up with our friends who climbed Sliding Board. We all four rappeled together at that point. Epic averted!
By AWinters
From: NH
Jun 26, 2011

The trail is definitely there. Topping out is more than worth it.
By Mike McLean
Oct 11, 2011

There is most definitely a trail down from the top. And it is a very obvious one at that (marked most of the way). I'd submit that if you top out, it's possibly quicker to walk off.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 12, 2011

The trail down may be harder than the route. This is a nice mellow climb with great rock..
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 22, 2012

This route is as good, if not better than Standard Route, and is almost never crowded. Beware of the name, however; it is not a good choice for novice leaders (even though the rating is mellow). As with most Whitehorse slab routes, there are some very long runnouts.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Aug 21, 2012

How is the gear through the arch? Looking to maybe lead it. Im a begining leader but am following most of the route
By chris magness
Sep 2, 2012

Gear in the arch is great, although I usually run it and blast up the slab to the right of the arch instead and get protection in a flake at the top of the arch.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 15, 2013

Beginner's Route Question: At the top of the arch on pitch four (right before the run-out 5.5 fifth pitch) there are TWO two-bolt belay stations. One is right above the arch (which is on-route), and the other one is twenty feet to the right. About twenty feet above the belay anchors to the right is another bolt. Does anybody know what the deal is with the anchors to the right of the route? Is it a variation? My son and I were climbing the route yesterday and it began to rain, so I scurried up from the right anchors, past the bolt, and up a somewhat runout rock rib (5.5) to an old gnarly tree. From there, we traversed right to the trees and "Beginner's Easy." I'm just curious what the deal is with these anchors to the right (and the bolt above them). There is no mention of these anchors in Jerry Handren's 2012 guidebook.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Aug 16, 2013

Nick its The Cormier-Magness Route
By Russ Keane
May 28, 2014

The second pitch is great!
By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
May 30, 2016

For the Pitch 8 to the top choose-your-own-adventure section, if you are looking for the easiest way off I suggest hiking 30 feet to the right of the belay. (We just untied and carried the rope over with us). You will see an obvious dike that goes at 5.0 or easier (unprotected) to a ledge up above with plenty of trees to belay from. From that ledge, you can again untie and hike a little bit to the right to join up with another easy dike in the area of 5.0 that leads to another tree belay. Many very easy and obvious choices from here.

Realistically, if your second is a confident climber and your were both confident on the 5.5 pitch there is no reason you can't just solo all of this.

You will want to either do this, or go left and meet up with Standard Route. Climbing straight up towards the obvious horizontal/arched crack and the big splitter crack on the wall above, although you can't really tell from the belay, is featureless and covered in lichen in the area above the horizontal crack, and I wouldn't recommend it.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!