Beginner's Route 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Jul 8, 2007 |
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Beginners route
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Description A wonderfully-misnamed route, since most beginners will probably not find chimney climbing particularly easy. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas lists this at 5.5, but most leaders find it a grade or two harder. Excellent protection and a good opportunity for practicing chimney technique make Beginner's Route a fun lead.
Starting below the obvious V-shaped chimney, make a bouldering move into the slot and work your way up to a slight overhang. Transition out of the chimney and up a crack to a slabby finish.
Location Starts about 15' left of Water in Motion. Rap from a tree with fixed slings and quicklinks.
Protection Standard rack, no big gear required. Build an anchor using trees and pro.
| Comments on Beginner's Route |
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By Joey Wolfe
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.6
| This climb is longer then it looks from the ground, and a lot more fun. The transition from chimney to turning and stemming at the top is a memorable (fun) series of moves. |
By TKHouse
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.6
| Uncommon style at the crags in Tennessee. Well worth the grunting.
The anchor at the top (slings with no padding around a tree) is beginning to look questionable. The tree is alive but not particularly well rooted. I recommend building an anchor, belaying up the second, and traversing right about twenty feet to another set of rings. |
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