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The Blob - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's One T 
Beginner's Twenty-six T 
Beginner's Two T 
Berkeley Dyke T 
Dialing For Ducats T 
Hobbit Roof T 
Safety In Numbers T 
Smear Tactics T 
Swagger T 

Beginner's One 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,949
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 25, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Beginner's One

Description 

This route is only somewhat similar to Beginner's Two, but perhaps easier due to the lack of a steep 'pod' as had by it's neighbor. On the West Face of The Blob, there is an obvious crack on the upper half. Scramble up to this crack via a low-angle slab; mind the scaling rock, it can crumble. Access the crack, place some pro and climb to the top. The route is 5.3 or so, yes, but not sewn up and there is a little scaling on the bottom half- not the best intro to leading.

Protection 

Carry a light standard rack.Maybe S? The climbing is mostly hikable, but that doesn't mean that it is well protected. Maybe not the best first lead for a neophyte climber.


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By Blitzo
Sep 23, 2006

A fun route for the beginner, soloist.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008

Crack would protect fine for a new leader, getting to the crack might be spicy for them (but easier than the crack, you essentially walk up low angle slabby terrain). The crack is good quality climbing, but woefully short, even by JT standards. The Bong is a better route of similar character and a better route for new leaders.

Descend by walking climbers' right to the right end of the formation then down low angle ledgy terrain following the path of least resistance to the top of a short chimney with an old bolt sleeve (no bolt) at the top. Worm down the very slick water polished chimney.
By HTP
From: Longmont, CO
Mar 30, 2009

The descent is tougher than the climb.
By dstandish
From: Los Angeles
Mar 31, 2012

This was a fun little adventure. Body anchor at the top. As for the descent, I suggest going left and descending via the north face downclimb. We ended up doing a short rap to get to the top of the north face. But the Vogel book says there is a downclimb to get to that spot.
By Cron
From: Barrington, NH
Jan 24, 2016
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R

My first solo. Chill walk off decent near the Bong at the north end of the Blob. Keep bolts off this thing.
By Sean Maher
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 3, 2016

I am not a free-soloist by any means, but I ended up soloing this route 3 times on my last trip. Each move felt 100% secure and reversible, yet the exposure lent the climb some excitement. Hard to beat the view from the top as well! Recommended as a first solo (if you know how to jam), and much more secure than Beginner's Two.

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