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This one starts on the slab just right of Passing the Baton. The crux is the roof, but it is turned on monster handlebar holds. You can kick your feet loose here for fun. The rock above the roof is well featured with "alligator skin" holds, and the climbing here is super fun.
This is the bolted route in the center of the wall. It turns the roof just left of a right-facing arch. Descend from the anchor on Passing the Baton.
8 bolts. Shares an anchor with Passing the Baton.
|Comments on Beginner's Luck
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
The chickenheads on the upper part of this wall are NOT to be missed. If you are a 5.11+ climber, do it in your sandals, tennis shoes muck-lucks, if you need it harder, but DO it. If you are a trad climber, bring a small rack and a bunch of slings to "choke the chickens" at the top. This one is a G-rated trad climb!
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Fun route, but the crux move is definitely harder than 5.6 for shorter climbers because they cannot reach the jugs overhead. Otherwise it's all very straightforward climbing.