Beginner's Luck is one of the handful of routes located to the left of the Access Fund trail's end. From the end of the trail, follow the base of the wall to the left past the large Napa Valley buttress and look for the bolts on Fearless First. Beginner's Luck is the right-trending crack to the left of Fearless First (there are a few bolts to the left of Beginner's but the routes are not identified in Baum's guidebook).
The first half of the crack is a little awkward in spots but straightforward nonetheless. Follow the crack past a horizontal break about a third of the way up. Continue to the top of the crack just below a large ledge. Traverse left and climb to the ledge and the anchors. Easy route and a fine introduction to Unaweep's climbs.
To descend, rap with a single rope from the ledge.
Standard rack: hand-sized cams, set of nuts.
Steve Marr rapping Beginner's Luck. Fearless firs...
Grant at the crux of Beginner's Luck.
Ben following to anchor.
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This was a terrific crack climb. On the easier side of 5.7, but a great romp up the granite. Certainly worth climbing if you're looking for a moderate route on Sunday Wall.
Apr 15, 2013
Fun little crack system with an awkward start. The climb was a little sandy which may have been due to the rain the night before. Lots of places to put gear leading to a two bolt anchor.
| || Dave following to the belay anchor. |