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 ADVANCED
7. The Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginners Direct T 
Beginners Easy Variation T 
Beginners Route T 
Booklet, The T 
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 
Dark Horse T 
Fingertip Trip T 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 
Interloper  T 
Man O War T 
Ninth Wave, The T 
Sea of Holes T 
Slabs Direct T 
Sliding Board T 
Slipshod T 
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 
Standard Route T 
Stop if you Dare T 
Tidal Wave T,S 
Waiting for Comeau T 
Wave Bye Bye T 
Wave Length T 
Wedge T 
White Wilderness T 

Beginners Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,035
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Two great pitches that make beginners more sustained and more enjoyable in my opinion...
The 5.6R pitch might filter out the less experienced slabster but if you are comfortable on 5.6 slab go for it...

Start by climbing the first 3 pitches of Beginners route where this variation begins...

Pitch 1: 5.6R Climb up to the base of the arch then continue pretty much straight over the bulge at the base of the arch... A couple pieces of gear are possible here including a tricam (so don't forget them like i did... After the bulge just run out the slab and past a couple flakes to a nice ledge shaped like a smile, there is a two bolt anchor here for your belaying pleasure...

Pitch 2: 5.5 Climb up to the nice big left facing flake and enjoy the great protection and nice jamming in the hand size crack... At the top of the flake you head straight up and a little right up a short face to a nice ledge at a pine tree (this is the 6th belay of the regular Beginners Route)...

From here you can finish up Beginners or rap from the fixed rings, it would be a few raps with double ropes...


Location 

A variation starting off the anchor atop pitch 3 of Beginners Route...


Protection 

Standard rack to #2 camalot and dont forget the tricams for the 5.6 pitch...



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