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Beginner's Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Jac Frech on Mar 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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I believe this is beginners crack.

Description 

Easy enough for kids except the last 10' at the top. Traverse left and roll over the top for the 5.6. If you go straight over the top it feels like 5.8R.

Location 

Left side about 20' from end at a blocky left facing dihedral just right of small overhang.

Protection 

Cam set for 1" and smaller cracks and/or nuts. 2 new anchors over the top.


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Rock Climbing Photo: I believe this is beginners crack.
I believe this is beginners crack.

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By kenr
Sep 21, 2014

Lots of interesting thoughtful moves.

Many beginners will find the low-mid crux (about 25 feet up) perplexing.

But almost all beginners will find the upper traverse leftward not only perplexing but strenuous for finger-grip. And with any fall subject to substantial side-swing if done as top-rope from either of the cliff-top bolt-pair anchors.

Better for real beginners is to try the "Beginners Top-Rope Face" route first, which offers less-complicated lessons in beginner techniques.
Then plan for beginners who want to try also this "Crack" route, to finish it below the top of the cliff, at the same little platform as the finish of "Beginners Top-Rope Face".
By Stavebomb
Feb 22, 2016

This is a fun climb that all three of us were able to send on top rope to the ledge about 10 feet from the top of the crag. I was able to complete the route traversing left at the very top. The beginning is relatively easy for beginners. The last 10 feet is challenging and leaves the climber vulnerable to a a pretty good swing if you take a fall. There are two sets of bolted anchors at the top of this route. One set is older and oxidized and the other is newer and looks a little better. We used the newer bolts with quick draws and hung a sling over the edge of the rock where we put two opposite and opposed carabiners.

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