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beginner trad routes in devils lake
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May 29, 2014
i currently have a basic rack am getting more and more into trad. I will be spending some time at devils lake for sure and was wondering what are some better routes here for getting into trad more? skierhs
Joined May 29, 2013
2 points
May 29, 2014
Coffee outside of JTNP
skierhs wrote:
i currently have a basic rack am getting more and more into trad. I will be spending some time at devils lake for sure and was wondering what are some better routes here for getting into trad more?


How hard do you want to start?

Foreplay is a classic route to do your first DL lead on.

The Spine is great too, and gives you the option of shooting for the 5.6 variation to start, and bailing into the 5.4 if you get in a little more than you bargained for.

Queen's Throne can be really well protected and might be the best choice.

It should go without saying, that this is all just my opinion and that anything you do is your decision. Routes change sometimes and you need to make the call at the base if you are up to the route you are about to climb. If I was going to make my first lead at Devil's Lake, it would probably be on one of these three routes. Make sure you have a solid understanding of protection placement and systems as well as anchoring before you go.
James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
Joined May 7, 2002
2,352 points
Administrator
May 29, 2014
Iko
The Bone is a good first lead.
mountainproject.com/v/the-bone...

To practice multi-pitch Turks Head Ridge is fun too.
mountainproject.com/v/turks-he...
Bill McKirgan
From Cedar Rapids, IA
Joined Aug 19, 2008
511 points
May 30, 2014
Devils Lake
I spent a lot time last summer learning how to trad at Devil's Lake. Here's a partial list of low-grade climbs I tackled that really helped me learn the ropes:

5.2 Romper
5.2 Ledges
5.2 Guillotine East
5.2 South Face
5.2 Anemia
5.2 Minnie Mum
5.3 30 Second Crack
5.3 Barefoot Crack
5.4 Second Balcony
5.4 Balcony
5.4 Cerebration
5.4 Faith, Hope, and Charity
5.4 Lumpy's Ridge (Route 15)
5.4 Son of a Bush
5.4 New Box
5.4 The Spine
5.4 Queens Throne
5.5 Seventh Buttress 5

A lot of these can be mock lead on top rope. It's also helpful to have someone to critique your placements.

Have fun and be safe!
Jeremy1701
Joined May 21, 2012
28 points
May 30, 2014
I agree, Queens Throne would be the best choice for a first lead. The Bone is good climbing, but rope drag can be an issue for a new leader. CCase
Joined Feb 19, 2014
32 points
May 30, 2014
Cleo's Needle SW Dihedral
Trad novice here.

A great way to spend a day would be to go to the Cleo Amphitheater and get on:

- Minnie Mum
- Minnie Mouse
- Mickey Mouse
- Queen's Throne
- East Comfort Route (Cleo's Needle)

That's my suggested order, crowds may dictate otherwise - it's a popular spot.

If you ever want to do some easy trad on weekends and are short a partner, hit me with a PM, I'll be out there a lot.
Zach Parsons
From Milwaukee, WI
Joined Aug 7, 2013
61 points
May 30, 2014
Coffee outside of JTNP
Bill McKirgan wrote:
The Bone is a good first lead. mountainproject.com/v/the-bone... To practice multi-pitch Turks Head Ridge is fun too. mountainproject.com/v/turks-he...


Turk's Head Ridge is great, but I wouldn't want it to be my first lead, route-finding is a pain and the climbing is, shall we say, less-than-aesthetic at times.
James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
Joined May 7, 2002
2,352 points
Administrator
May 30, 2014
Iko
James M Schroeder wrote:
Turk's Head Ridge is great, but I wouldn't want it to be my first lead, route-finding is a pain and the climbing is, shall we say, less-than-aesthetic at times.


Agreed, it is tough to find the start and it does wind around quite a bit.
Bill McKirgan
From Cedar Rapids, IA
Joined Aug 19, 2008
511 points
May 30, 2014
Leading Cox hollow Right side
Sunken pillar good pro all the way.
mountainproject.com/v/sunken-p...
Paul Leverich
Joined Jan 18, 2013
17 points
Jun 8, 2014
Ice at SR
Why would you climb "in "Devil's Lake?? A little WET! Climb AT Devil's Lake! LOL Juggler
Joined Sep 20, 2009
991 points
Jun 9, 2014
Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
Queen's Throne is a must lead classic as everyone mentioned.

If you want to have a really good time and get an intro to multi-pitch Jungle-gym is one of the best 5-funs at the lake. There is a 5.6 start at the base of the route that I highly recommend. Otherwise you can climb 5.4 the whole way up it. It's made up of two 30 foot pitches, then a good 50 or 60 foot pitch that is just a ton of fun with an amazing view. It finishes at the base of Devil's Doorway so you can keep going and do the 5.6 Bloody Finger on the Doorway. Makes for an amazing beginner trad day. Tons of pro along the way, great belay ledges with easy anchor building. Like I said, perfect intro to multi-pitch.

Brinton's is another awesome lead that goes in the beginner territory. The crux is a mental one definitely. The traverse on it can be a lil intimidating, but every move on that route is awesome and it's well protected.

Peter's Project is another good one, but beware of the low crux on it.

Broken Ladder is also an excellent beginner lead in that area with a ton of pro.
Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
155 points
Apr 13, 2015
5.easy trad leader here. mostly just long out of practice, what is everyones favorite rack to take to DL? I have never been. nick callahan
Joined Jan 8, 2015
0 points
Administrator
Apr 13, 2015
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
For easier routes, a set of nuts, a set of cams, 8-10 runners and draws, and a cordolette. Doubles in whatever your favorite size gear is.

As you push onto harder routes, you'll want more small and micro stuff.
Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,216 points
Apr 13, 2015
Chez Chimney Dylan B
Joined Apr 9, 2010
26 points
Apr 13, 2015
Joel Allen Sending Upper D.
Most of the best ones have been said but Easy Overhang is a good easy route that you could sew up to practice placing gear.

Just don't have your first lead be double overhang with 2 alpines................................
Joel Allen
From La Crosse
Joined Mar 25, 2014
140 points
Apr 14, 2015
Waiting out the rain at Devils Lake State Park, WI
A second for Cleo's Needle
also, False Perspective at Misery Rocks ain't too shabby at 5.7
TravisK
From Phoenix, AZ
Joined Oct 17, 2010
357 points
Apr 29, 2015
HCR
The Bone
Queens throne
Throne room
Jacobs ladder
Lost face
Britons crack
Cleos needle
Peters project
Cul del sac (5.8?)
TabBloodstone
From Minneapolis, MN
Joined Nov 18, 2013
41 points


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