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beginner trad routes in devils lake
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By skierhs
May 29, 2014
i currently have a basic rack am getting more and more into trad. I will be spending some time at devils lake for sure and was wondering what are some better routes here for getting into trad more?

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By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
May 29, 2014
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt
skierhs wrote:
i currently have a basic rack am getting more and more into trad. I will be spending some time at devils lake for sure and was wondering what are some better routes here for getting into trad more?


How hard do you want to start?

Foreplay is a classic route to do your first DL lead on.

The Spine is great too, and gives you the option of shooting for the 5.6 variation to start, and bailing into the 5.4 if you get in a little more than you bargained for.

Queen's Throne can be really well protected and might be the best choice.

It should go without saying, that this is all just my opinion and that anything you do is your decision. Routes change sometimes and you need to make the call at the base if you are up to the route you are about to climb. If I was going to make my first lead at Devil's Lake, it would probably be on one of these three routes. Make sure you have a solid understanding of protection placement and systems as well as anchoring before you go.

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By Bill McKirgan
Administrator
From Cedar Rapids, IA
May 29, 2014
Iko
The Bone is a good first lead.
mountainproject.com/v/the-bone...

To practice multi-pitch Turks Head Ridge is fun too.
mountainproject.com/v/turks-he...

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By Jeremy1701
May 30, 2014
Devils Lake
I spent a lot time last summer learning how to trad at Devil's Lake. Here's a partial list of low-grade climbs I tackled that really helped me learn the ropes:

5.2 Romper
5.2 Ledges
5.2 Guillotine East
5.2 South Face
5.2 Anemia
5.2 Minnie Mum
5.3 30 Second Crack
5.3 Barefoot Crack
5.4 Second Balcony
5.4 Balcony
5.4 Cerebration
5.4 Faith, Hope, and Charity
5.4 Lumpy's Ridge (Route 15)
5.4 Son of a Bush
5.4 New Box
5.4 The Spine
5.4 Queens Throne
5.5 Seventh Buttress 5

A lot of these can be mock lead on top rope. It's also helpful to have someone to critique your placements.

Have fun and be safe!

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By CCase
May 30, 2014
I agree, Queens Throne would be the best choice for a first lead. The Bone is good climbing, but rope drag can be an issue for a new leader.

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By Zach Parsons
From Milwaukee, WI
May 30, 2014
Tying in at Cox Hollow
Trad novice here.

A great way to spend a day would be to go to the Cleo Amphitheater and get on:

- Minnie Mum
- Minnie Mouse
- Mickey Mouse
- Queen's Throne
- East Comfort Route (Cleo's Needle)

That's my suggested order, crowds may dictate otherwise - it's a popular spot.

If you ever want to do some easy trad on weekends and are short a partner, hit me with a PM, I'll be out there a lot.

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By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
May 30, 2014
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt
Bill McKirgan wrote:
The Bone is a good first lead. mountainproject.com/v/the-bone... To practice multi-pitch Turks Head Ridge is fun too. mountainproject.com/v/turks-he...


Turk's Head Ridge is great, but I wouldn't want it to be my first lead, route-finding is a pain and the climbing is, shall we say, less-than-aesthetic at times.

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By Bill McKirgan
Administrator
From Cedar Rapids, IA
May 30, 2014
Iko
James M Schroeder wrote:
Turk's Head Ridge is great, but I wouldn't want it to be my first lead, route-finding is a pain and the climbing is, shall we say, less-than-aesthetic at times.


Agreed, it is tough to find the start and it does wind around quite a bit.

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By Paul Leverich
May 30, 2014
Leading Cox hollow Right side
Sunken pillar good pro all the way.
mountainproject.com/v/sunken-p...

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By Juggler
Jun 8, 2014
Ice at SR
Why would you climb "in "Devil's Lake?? A little WET! Climb AT Devil's Lake! LOL

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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Jun 9, 2014
Tebow Climbs.  Bet you didn't know that.
Queen's Throne is a must lead classic as everyone mentioned.

If you want to have a really good time and get an intro to multi-pitch Jungle-gym is one of the best 5-funs at the lake. There is a 5.6 start at the base of the route that I highly recommend. Otherwise you can climb 5.4 the whole way up it. It's made up of two 30 foot pitches, then a good 50 or 60 foot pitch that is just a ton of fun with an amazing view. It finishes at the base of Devil's Doorway so you can keep going and do the 5.6 Bloody Finger on the Doorway. Makes for an amazing beginner trad day. Tons of pro along the way, great belay ledges with easy anchor building. Like I said, perfect intro to multi-pitch.

Brinton's is another awesome lead that goes in the beginner territory. The crux is a mental one definitely. The traverse on it can be a lil intimidating, but every move on that route is awesome and it's well protected.

Peter's Project is another good one, but beware of the low crux on it.

Broken Ladder is also an excellent beginner lead in that area with a ton of pro.

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