By Dr Awkward From SF, CA Sep 21, 2011
| I've been climbing for about a year now but mostly in the gym and TR'ing outside. I would like to start leading outside but every area that I have found on MP is a little above my grade and I don't want to be climbing at my limit while still getting comfortable climbing above bolts. Where would you go (within a 2-3 hour drive of SF) if you were just starting to lead? (looking for easy climbing in the 5.0(?) to 5.10- range) |  FLAG |
By Colonel Mustard From Reno, NV Sep 24, 2011
| There's Pinnacles NM down south near Gilroy that has some routes in that range. The rock there can be an adventure but a lot of the stuff on the East side of the park, Discovery Wall and the Monolith in particular, are pretty well cleaned up. Mickey's Beach near Stinson has a couple of tens, but they don't really fit the bill. Get comfortable leading in the gym, then go to Table Mountain (find the Gold Wall if you can) and start leading the 9's to upper 10's. The thing is, the whole point of sport climbing is leading at your limit, so you may as well get into it early. If you are on an overhanging route, there is no more danger than gym climbing, really. |  FLAG |
By bergbryce From South Lake Tahoe, CA Sep 26, 2011
| Pinnacles has a fair amount of stuff but it's an acquired taste and isn't what I'd call a sport area. Amazing Face on Diablo is a fine route and is a modern sport route and one of the few I can think of in your grades around the Bay. The Egg at Mickey's has some easier lines on it, but again that's kind of an acquired taste. There are lots of places around the Bay to set up TRs and getting laps on something is way better than nothing. |  FLAG |
By Timmamok From Durango, CO Sep 26, 2011
| The first guy answered your question perfect. Castle Rock. |  FLAG |
By kevin deweese From walnut creek, ca Sep 26, 2011
| I'd avoid Castle Rock these days, the bolt ban is taking its toll and many routes have suspect bolts that we're not allowed to replace. Plus, the rangers are less than supportive of the whole idea of climbers. |  FLAG |
By Colonel Mustard From Reno, NV Sep 26, 2011
| kevin deweese wrote: I'd avoid Castle Rock these days, the bolt ban is taking its toll and many routes have suspect bolts that we're not allowed to replace. Plus, the rangers are less than supportive of the whole idea of climbers. Castle Rock is fun for sure, but your points do take a bite out of it. There are some good routes there for the beginner though, particularly the University of Santa Clara Practice Climb, but I wouldn't call it a sport climbing haven. Also, consider Big Chief in the Truckee River Canyon, it has some good sport moderates within a three hour drive. It's good in Fall until the snow starts really coming down. |  FLAG |
By Timmamok From Durango, CO Sep 26, 2011
| kevin deweese wrote: I'd avoid Castle Rock these days, the bolt ban is taking its toll and many routes have suspect bolts that we're not allowed to replace. Plus, the rangers are less than supportive of the whole idea of climbers. Bummer. I haven't climbed there in 15+ years. |  FLAG |
By Greg Barnes Sep 26, 2011
| Do lots of leading in the gyms, then drive 5 hours over to Clark Canyon near Mammoth, or Owens RIver Gorge near Bishop (that's more like 6 hours). Loads of fun, tightly bolted routes in the 5.6-5.9 range, nice scenery, etc. There's nothing in the 2-3 hour range that really fits the bill (you want to be a 5.10 leader at the Table Mountain areas ie Grotto, Gold Wall, etc). There are many newer routes in Tuolumne that are well bolted for Tuolumne (such as many on Dozier Dome), but they are still pretty run out compared to Clark, Owens, etc - and many need at least a few cams and nuts. |  FLAG |
By dourbalistar Sep 26, 2011
| Zeke wrote: Castle Rock is fun for sure, but your points do take a bite out of it. There are some good routes there for the beginner though, particularly the University of Santa Clara Practice Climb, but I wouldn't call it a sport climbing haven. I believe this climb, and the entire Summit Rock area in Sanborn-Skyline County Park, is closed indefinitely to climbing because of raptor nesting. There are some local efforts to try to change the complete blanket closure to a seasonal closure. To the OP, somebody already mentioned Mt. St. Helena, but the Table Scraps Pinnacle specifically has some good, introductory lead climbs. You should know how to set up a rappel, though, since I don't think the climbs have walk-off options. www.mountainproject.com/v/table-scraps-pinnacle/106543621 |  FLAG |
By kevin deweese From walnut creek, ca Sep 26, 2011
| Zeke wrote: There are some good routes there for the beginner though, particularly the University of Santa Clara Practice Climb, but I wouldn't call it a sport climbing haven. USC Practice Climb is at Summit Rock that has been closed to climbers for quite a few years due to "recent" raptor nesting in the "area" edit: damit, didn't see above post. |  FLAG |
|