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 ADVANCED
Upper Theology Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beggar's Banquet S 
Titanium Albatross S 
Trial of Faith TR 
Trouble With Normal, The S 
Unknown 5.10d S 
Unknown 5.11d S,TR 
Unnamed (Water Jump Start) TR 
Unnamed 5.12a S 
Unnamed 5.9 S 
Unsorted Routes:

Beggar's Banquet 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: andy patterson on Oct 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Beggars Banquet follows the X's

Description 

Starts a short scramble up and to the left of "The Trouble With Normal". Juggy and overhanging moves off the ground transition into steep and powerful face climbing above. The second to last bolt is the crux. As of this writing, the crux is a lunge to a small crimp which, judging from the amount of glue still on the rock, used to be a large crimp but broke off, hence the 5.11 c/d rating. I think the route used to be graded 5.11b. Whatever its rating, be prepared to go for it at the end!

Location 

Just left of Trial of Faith.

Protection 

Bring at least eight draws. The anchor has two bolts (one is so-so), and an open-shut.


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 17, 2007

For those who have climbed this route in the past, I apologize if my new grade of 5.11 c/d seems a bit stiff. Perhaps I am a poor judge of difficulty. If you could care less, then this comment is of no importance, but If you think me a chest-puffer, then I'd welcome a correction. Any attention to Upper Theology Crag is good attention. Whatever your disposition, I don't think you'll be disappointed.
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jan 9, 2008

i think it's somewhere in the hard .11 range now, that top part is definitely a trick.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Weed
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Definitely hard 11 ish, I would say 11c, that crimp is small!
By Richard Shore
Jun 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I don't feel that the move to the small, yet positive crimp is the crux, but the move just past it over the bulge onto the lichenous slab above is. A wild stem far out right with the feet was the ticket for me. Steep, pumpy, and long for SB. 4 stars!
By Richard Shore
Aug 28, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Original 1980's 3/8" Star-Dryvin nail anchors replaced with beefy 1/2" x 4" Rawls with ASCA double ring hangers 8/27/11. Those bolts were in really bad shape; the thin metal sleeves had basically disintigrated inside the hole. I was glad I brought along a pair of needle-nose pliers to extract all the broken bolt pieces!

I'll try and replace the Trouble with Normal anchors next time I'm out there.