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West Face, Direct Start 

Beetle Bailey 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kent Lugbill & Greg Hand, 8/20/2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,722
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Aug 20, 2009
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Beetle Bailey starts about 50 ft above the new anc...
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Description 

Climb the left center of the clean face high above Bailey's Overhang. Good climbing with the crux at the 7th bolt. A 60 meter rope gets you back down to the anchors at the top of Bailey's Overhang, which you then take to the ground. A shorter rope will NOT work.


Location 

This is 50 feet above the bolt anchor at the top of Bailey's Overhang. May be approached via Bailey's Overhang or the routes to the left.


Protection 

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. Optional #2 Friend after last bolt. Finger size gear for belay at base of pitch.



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By Dave Walker
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Nice route. It adds some spice to Bailey's Overhang for the upper section. You can either rap from the anchors (2 raps to ground with one 60-m rope) or climb to the top of the formation and scramble down. This second option makes for a nice summit. Some may think Beetle Bailey is over-bolted, but the clips are well placed and the climbing is clean. I give it a 5.10b/c.

By Rich Farnham
Jun 25, 2011

Some fun climbing on a nice slab of rock. Strangely bolted -- typical Boulder Canyon always-on-toprope style for the middle section, with a random runout or two at the start and finish.

My 60m rope didn't get me all the way back to the anchor on Bailey's overhang. I came up about 5' short. I ended up on a ledge that I was comfortable down-soloing the very easy, and not exposed moves to the anchor, but be careful. Strangely, all 60s are not the same length. Don't assume yours will reach.

By s.kimball
Jul 8, 2011

Thanks, gentlemen, for adding modern rap anchors above Baileys. I broke the thin, undercling flake out right from the crux. I would have to call it harder 5.10 now.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 16, 2011

A #2 Helium friend didn't fit into the suggested gear placement, but a green C4 works great. No need for any other gear except quickdraws of course....

We had tons of rope left rapping with our 70m. Seems like a 60m will reach (4th class down-climb if not).

By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 28, 2012

There are 2 sets of anchors that you can rap to from the top of this route - the anchors to the climbers right are slightly lower and we hit the ends of our 70 m rope. If using a 60m, I would aim for the other set.