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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Beetle Bailey 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kent Lugbill & Greg Hand, 8/20/2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,919
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Aug 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Beetle Bailey starts about 50 ft above the new anc...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the left center of the clean face high above Bailey's Overhang. Good climbing with the crux at the 7th bolt. A 60 meter rope gets you back down to the anchors at the top of Bailey's Overhang, which you then take to the ground. A shorter rope will NOT work.

Location 

This is 50 feet above the bolt anchor at the top of Bailey's Overhang. May be approached via Bailey's Overhang or the routes to the left.

Protection 

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. Optional #2 Friend after last bolt. Finger size gear for belay at base of pitch.


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By Dave Walker
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nice route. It adds some spice to Bailey's Overhang for the upper section. You can either rap from the anchors (2 raps to ground with one 60-m rope) or climb to the top of the formation and scramble down. This second option makes for a nice summit. Some may think Beetle Bailey is over-bolted, but the clips are well placed and the climbing is clean. I give it a 5.10b/c.
By Rich Farnham
Jun 25, 2011

Some fun climbing on a nice slab of rock. Strangely bolted -- typical Boulder Canyon always-on-toprope style for the middle section, with a random runout or two at the start and finish.

My 60m rope didn't get me all the way back to the anchor on Bailey's overhang. I came up about 5' short. I ended up on a ledge that I was comfortable down-soloing the very easy, and not exposed moves to the anchor, but be careful. Strangely, all 60s are not the same length. Don't assume yours will reach.
By s.kimball
Jul 8, 2011

Thanks, gentlemen, for adding modern rap anchors above Baileys. I broke the thin, undercling flake out right from the crux. I would have to call it harder 5.10 now.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 16, 2011

A #2 Helium friend didn't fit into the suggested gear placement, but a green C4 works great. No need for any other gear except quickdraws of course....

We had tons of rope left rapping with our 70m. Seems like a 60m will reach (4th class down-climb if not).
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 28, 2012

There are 2 sets of anchors that you can rap to from the top of this route - the anchors to the climbers right are slightly lower and we hit the ends of our 70 m rope. If using a 60m, I would aim for the other set.