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 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T,S 
Bad Boys Bolt T 
Beer for Breakfast T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 
Birdland T 
Black Market T 
Blackstreak TR 
Dirty Love T 
Fun Flake T 
Funkativity T 
Go Spuds Go T 
Good Girls Don't T 
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 
Shadow Dance S 
Slab Happy S 
Sugar Mountain T 
Two Minds Meet T 
Wigs on Fire T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Beer for Breakfast 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: D. Braddy, J. Bassett, 1982
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 6, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Fun climbing up this clean dihedral leads to an ex...

Description 

Beer for Breakfast is a rare (partial) crack line on the Lower Tier of the South Slabs.

Ascend a right-angling, right-facing dihedral immediately right of Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) through steepening terrain to a small roof. Surmount the roof on small holds (crux), and continue up the easier but runout face above, aiming for a seam in a depression above. Climb the seam - very thin, 8+/9 - and push onward up the slab above to belay anchors shared with Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland).


Location 

Behind and to the right of a pine on the right-most side of the Lower Tier of the South Slabs is an alcove featuring a number of cracks. Beer for Breakfast climbs the right-facing dihedral that forms the left border to this alcove.


Protection 

A light rack will get you up this pitch comfortably - the dihedral takes small nuts on up to a #3 Camalot, and the climbing above is mostly run-out, with potental for micro cams or maybe RPs in the seam.



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