Beer Crack V3
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| Type: | Trad, Boulder, 20 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b V2- [details] |
| FA: | Davin Bagdonas |
| Submitted By: | Justin Edl on Oct 25, 2007 |
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Vanessa Cassat working on Beer Crack.
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Description This is a new Vedauwoo classic. It is a sixty degree overhanging splitter hand crack roof that leads to a gaping flared offwidth exit, which isn't too bad due to a big face hold to the left of the crack. Start sitting down on the first good hands at the bottom of the roof. There are many ways to do the end, so after you figure it out you can just keep playing around. This thing is really good.
Location Park as for the other problems and hike toward the obvious rocks. When you get to them head left a couple hundred yards and look to your right for the obvious roof.
Protection A pad and a spotter can be nice for the lip.
Bob and I at the Beer Crack.
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Bjorn on Beer Crack.
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Beer Crack.
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Brett Betancourt cranking ass on Beer Crack.
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The grandmaster himself, discussing the weather, s...
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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 26, 2007
| One should say that a pad and spotter can be nice for the lip, depending on your beta. There's a way to do it that makes it completely safe, but it is body size dependent. Awesome, awesome line.
Also, from the parking area, there is a faint trail that deposits you about 50 feet right of this thing on the ridge line. It's right next to the creek. |
By natedawg
Jul 9, 2008
| If you go to do this thing, take a shovel, it could be extended another 15 feet by digging out the back of the cave. |
By Nick Barczak
Apr 22, 2012
| Outstanding boulder problem! Very fun. I was going to look around for some other stuff while I was there, but I ended up doing this thing like 12 times in a row. I just enjoyed it that much! |
By Jordan Moore
Sep 4, 2012
| I tried this problem last weekend and got stopped in my tracks at the offwidth section. After grabbing the good face hold with a good right hand jam and my feet above your head in the crack, what do you do? Is there and offwidth guru out there with the beta!? |
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 5, 2012
| The beta I was shown (but never actually succeeded with) involved getting a right-arm chicken wing and struggling up until you can get your foot on that big hold. |
By natedawg
Mar 24, 2013
| While holding the jug with lefty, kick your right knee up above the constriction, then you can sit up enough to get the right-arm chicken wing - easy enough from there. |
By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 7, 2013
| The super-secret-ninja beta is to invert while still in the handcrack; kicking heel-toe cammies into the widepart; then you let go, no-handsies, whipping around to the jug; then you can switch the cammies to knee-jammies and wiggle up. That's it . . . DUH!!!! |
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