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Beer Barrel Boulder
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Beer Barrel Loop, The 
Beer Belly aka Beached Whale? 
Double Clutch TR 
East Slab aka The Downclimb 
No Name 
Northeast Mantle 
Poling Pebble 
South Face 
Southwest Prow 
West Face Traverse 

Beer Belly aka Beached Whale? 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: Chris Lesher, 1998?
Page Views: 1,845
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Adam Shepler on Beached Whale.

Description 

To the right of Poling Pebble is a V4 that starts off two slopers to a left hand sharp crimp and thruches onto the face. Beached Whale aka Beer Belly adds extra value by sit starting in some sloping underclings and moving into this problem, a little contrived.

Protection 

Knotted spectra.


Photos of Beer Belly aka Beached Whale? Slideshow Add Photo
Steve on the V4 to the right of Poling Pebble.
BETA PHOTO: Steve on the V4 to the right of Poling Pebble.

Comments on Beer Belly aka Beached Whale? Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 24, 2008
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

The sit start is called Beer Belly. I don know of anyone who did it before us but since my ascent was just a few years ago thats obviously suspect.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 11, 2003

While this is a fun addition to an already good problem, I don't think it adds much difficulty at all. It definately doesnt' feel harder than Face Out (v5) or First Overhang (v5). I would say the sit start bring the grade to v4+ at most.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 11, 2003

adam, i'm gonna have to respectfully disagree.

while I send first overhang, face out and polling pebble almost every time i set my mind to it, beached whale has thwarted my efforts dozens of serious tries on many different days. starting on the slopey undercling underneath requires a difficult right hand crossover or some thrutchy left hand movements just to get to a decent hold. these two moves (which get you into the stand-up start) are much harder than just about any 5.12a, b or c i've ever tried.

yeah grades are subjective and all, but this problem has kicked my ass over and over again and IMHO, v6 (which should equate to a 5.12d move or section of moves) is not a soft grade for this fun variation.
By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 11, 2003

its a very sly v4+
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 13, 2003

Chip- from your comments about the difficulty of the sit start it sounds like your missing the knee bar. when you pull up into the underclings a bomber right knee bar can be set that makes the crossover move very easy. with the knee set properly i can almost take both hands off. give it a try and let me know what you think.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 13, 2003

i'll be sure and try it very soon. now i'm psyched to get on that "sly" problem again. thanx =_
By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2004

the grades suggested here are complete insanity. the sit start is v7 and a hard one at that. If you don't use the knee bar, or try it in anything less than optimal temps, its even harder. It you are climbing 12+/13-, or solid v8, you will find this problem still a challenge and a fun one at that.
By Anonymous Coward
May 10, 2004

no offense, but you're definately missing something. i flashed this and have never even came close to flashing anything harder than v5. on the same day i saw a whole crew of boulderers walk the sit start and none of them could do polling pebble.
By David A. Turner
Jul 16, 2004

There is no way the sit start is only a little harder than the stand start, even with the knee bar. Although, next time I get on it I'm bringing a knee pad. One day last fall there was some dude who did the sit start into a traverse that took him all the way around Beer Barrel to the heinous problem on the NE corner. He blew off the very last move.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 23, 2004

I second the the sit start @ V7. It is MUCH harder than the northeast corner @ V6 and even with the kneebar, it is very difficult. As much as I have climbed at Flagstaff, I have never seen anybody flash this problem, and I have seen three SOLID V8/5.13 climbers get shut down even with ALL the beta.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 24, 2004

Definitely call it V7 if you want. All grades are different for different people. Just know that it is the most walked V7 on Flag.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2008

Did this problem this morning and V7 is totally appropriate. I couldn't find the kneebar or any other beta that would make it easy. If this is V5 or 6, then its neighbor, Poling Pebble, is V3.

I started on the underclings, went left to the OK sloper, found a miserable little edge for the right, went left to the tiny sloping pocket hold, brought the right over, and punched left to the good edge.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 9, 2008

Peter, I need to show you the kneebar one of these early mornings. I finally "found" the kneebar earlier this year and it went in a few minutes. The second key to the problem is a little foothold under the bulge. V6 seemed about right.

FWIW, the correct name for this problem is Beer Belly, FA: Chris Lesher, 1998.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 10, 2008

Thanks Chip. Yeah, if you want to do the dawn patrol, let me know.
By Mingus
Jun 24, 2008

When we were first trying this none of us could make the kneebar work so we quickly (too quickly!) gave up on it and did the problem as Peter describes. After we worked it out with no kneebar some other guys shortly figured out the kneebar and it's about a grade easier that way.
Chris