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Immediately right of 'The Ground Doesn't Lie' is a bolted line that starts off a block at 12 feet or so. Scramble up to the first clip and negotiate another adhered block on its right side. You can make a clip before standing up to run the nice 5.10 face above. The last couple of bolts are a bit spacey, but the climbing is secure, edgy, and chock full of good ledges for the feet.
I thought there were two "cruxes" one was getting established above the second bolt and another arose somewhere in the chocolate face below the anchor. A worthy problem to play on for the foot work, however, it is not very strenuous.
Note, over the years, this route has become quite rounded in places.
Quickdraws and a rope.
At the crux, great route with few bolts.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Spacey indeed. I would only head up this one if you are solid in the 10s. The final crux puts you in ledge-fall potential. This one is a bit easier with a longer draw at the crux.
|By Michael G.|
Nov 9, 2013
If you heavier than your belayer and take a solid fall above the third clip, you might hit the pillar. So this might be best for people who are already good with the grade.