Been Caught Stealin'
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A fun chunk of varnish I spotted while checking out the new lines on the smaller of the two Jane's walls. Some powerful moves but the rock quality, movement, and positive holds on this one are really good. The name derives from a combination of one of Janes's Addiction's best songs and some mild controversy about the FA.
Takes steep dark rock between Mannish Boys and the two 10s on the right. Begin by laybacking up a corner on hollow rock.
4 Stainless bolts and hangers, all placed on lead, no hooks, no chalk, no previewing, no bullshit (til after the FA, anyway) Stainless ring anchor hangers up top allow a more pleasant finish to the leftmost of the two 5.10s to the right of the route as well, avoiding the odd and awkward traverse that I've seen people swearing on.
By Cunning Linguist
Feb 17, 2014
There has been a furious swarm of emailing about the FA of this ground-up line lately. If the folks who ignored the red tag, which admittedly I should have taken down when I finished the route (who knew anyone was making the hike to Jane's Wall lately?) want to contact me and have a laugh about all the nonsense over a beer, here's your open invitation. I'll even buy a beer for Larry if he wants to show up like the wizard of oz popping out from behind the curtain of his laptop.
By Andrew Yasso
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 9, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bit of a squeeze but worthwhile at that. Think there are still some holds down low that may pop in time (especially if someone gets on it after a rain). I think 5.11- is more of a redpoint grade than an onsight grade, as the key hold isn't super obvious. Fun.