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Beeleave 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,563
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Oct 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Leif, Clipping the second to last bolt.

Description 

Holy Cow what a route! Only possible if the bees have left...HA! Get it?! Ok...maybe not.

Starts just left of the mega project (now sent). And heads up nice big rails/jugs (some with guano close by) into a STEEP section of big holds that you have to commit to with nice dead-pointish moves. Then use the BIG bee hole (if you dare) for your rest before heading into a final hard part (perhaps the crux) as suddenly the holds, while still good, get a lot smaller.
You can see most of the route in the beta photo of The Rattler. The bolts are obvious, to the left of the drawn in route.
Worked on this when some time ago and had to go back to get it but sooooo worth it. Thought this was one of the best 5.12 I had ever done or tried.

Protection 

9 bolts and chain


Photos of Beeleave Slideshow Add Photo
Me exiting the hole on the super steep Beeleave.
Me exiting the hole on the super steep Beeleave.

Comments on Beeleave Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 8, 2010

The bees are gone, but now there are bats in the hole. They start squeaking like crazy once you put your hand or foot in, and it's pretty disconcerting.
By Tanner Wise
Jun 13, 2011

finally! after projecting this climb since last summer I got the redpoint! this climb is soooo much fun and incredibly pumpy! I love it
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 31, 2011

Really fun,juggy route. Bottom section has a couple hard pulls, then its just long reaches between really deep holds to Batcave, then a final long move off a good pocket finishes it off. Lots of bad holds ticked on this route making the onsight harder then if they weren't ticked. The Batcave has literally 50 bats living in it but they weren't even aware of my foot when I stuck it in there. Don't let the guano scare you away. This route is fun!
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Aug 13, 2011

It appears the bats have left or were perfectly undisturbed by me sticking most of my leg in there. I was kind of hoping to hear them. Judging by the smell they're probably still in there. Awesome route. The chalk on the holds helped me in some cases and hurt me in others. I thought it was one of the more fun routes i've done in a while.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 23, 2012

Very fun route, but take 9 draws(not 7) plus 2 for the chains.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Well protected - 9 draws + 2 draws for anchors! The bottom 3 or 4 draws felt like the technical crux and some of the chalked holds led me astray! The upper half of the climb, though easier, is deadpoint after deadpoint on excellent holds! You can do a knee bar and/or a bat hang at the "batcave" and shake out. From bolt 8 to bolt 9 felt like the crux. It's a total bitch to clean especially if your belay doesn't know what he/she is doing!! If you're in that area, then THIS is the climb to do, even if it is covered in bat shit, most of which you can avoid!!
By Jordan Watt
From: Provo, Utah
Aug 29, 2014

It is perma-drawed now. so you only need 2 draws and then the chains have those huge towing clips on them so you don't need draws for that either. It is a great big move to big hold climb. My friend just broke the left side of the giant bat hole so I don't know if that changes anything yet or not but it shouldn't cause that hold is so huge.
By Leif E
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Huge bummer your buddy broke the left corner... definitely still goes, the fixed draws will most likely be taken down this fall, so just in case, bring your own...