Can be done in
1 or 2 pitches. 1st pitch is 12b, 2nd pitch is 12a.
Direct start or slightly to the right with right hand on undercling. Starts with a bouldery move to good pockets under first bolt. Crank some polished crimps and move out left to a nice pocket and up thru some more jugs. Move out left to a small pocket and then back right (this seems to be the redpoint crux for most people). Head straight up for maximum value or veer a little right into the corner choss. Top out on some slopey edges and clip the chains or keep going.
First climb to the right of Suicide Blonde.
From: SL UT
Jun 28, 2010
The start felt quite a bit harder than the grade suggests. Quite airy and technical up high. A creative line that weaves through a fair bit of choss...best done as one long pitch. Use care when clipping the first bolt- it spins like a top. What a boring description posted above!
|By steve edwards|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 19, 2010
A hold broke and the standard start is slightly right. Hard, still, especially at 12a. Most say b/c now.
From: SL UT
May 29, 2012
The direct start is possible and around V4/V5- the upper pitch up the blunt arete and through the crack in the high triangle roof is 12a and offers some great pockets! It can be done in one fun and varied pitch with a 60 meter rope (12 draws?).