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Beehive Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien Dave S 
Back to Bucket Country S 
Chivalry is Dead S 
Five Days One Summer S 
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 
Gypsie Fire S 
Intoxica S 
Lucky Groove S 
Madiera Beach S 
Middle Staircase S 
Monkey and the Engineer S 
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 
Noxious Invasives S 
Phipps' Gardens S 
Priests are Perverts, Too S 
Rip Chords S 
Safari Winch Ride S 
Unnamed Roof Problem S 
Walk on the Wild Side S 
Walking the Board S 
Unsorted Routes:

Beehive Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.2285, -105.4085 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,244
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Jun 23, 2008
Forecast:
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An oddity for the 'Woo, Beehive Buttress features predominantly bolt protected sport climbing on granite more reminiscent of Boulder Canyon than the sharp, crystally slabs of the rest of the area. Instead of microscopic crimps on smeary slabs, expect jugs, slopers, positive crimps and the odd solution pocket to leaven the face climbing. Situated in a quiet valley away from the maddening crowds, the Beehive Buttress is a great place to go for an afternoon while your gobies heal.

Getting There 

Take Blair-Wallis Road from the Lincoln Monument towards the central area. Hang a left on 705J (unmarked & rough), then another left on 705JA until the road finally becomes too narrow to drive down. Follow an ATV trail until you reach the base of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beehive Buttress:
Rip Chords   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Priests are Perverts, Too   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Middle Staircase   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Phipps' Gardens   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Back to Bucket Country   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Five Days One Summer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 105'   
Lucky Groove   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land)   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Chivalry is Dead   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Alien Dave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Walking the Board   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Intoxica   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Unnamed Roof Problem   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Noxious Invasives   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Beehive Buttress

Featured Route For Beehive Buttress
Bolts and route for Phipps' Garden. <br /> <br />Left-facing dihedral where approach trail reaches bottom of cliff. <br /> <br />Climbers in upper left are at anchors for "Madeira Beach" and "Safari Winch Ride."

Phipps' Gardens 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WY : Vedauwoo : Beehive Buttress
The climb is friction/smearing up a smooth slab. It is more typical of granite slab climbing than other routes on the Beehive.The crux is smearing with thin edges for fingers between bolts one and two. A second crux is at another slab between bolts 5 and 8, if you climb directly up the bolts.This is more sustained than most other moderate Beehive routes....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Local Information for Beehive Buttress
Photos of Beehive Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
A 5.5 at the hive.
A 5.5 at the hive.
View up from the western base.
View up from the western base.
Beehive Buttress. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Beehive Buttress.
Photo by Blitzo.
Beehive Buttress from the East.
Beehive Buttress from the East.

Comments on Beehive Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 23, 2008
Well yeah. The rather limited number of routes, especially routes well suited to hang dogging and/or posing on for sponsorship photos tends to keep those types away.
By Nicholas Brown
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 11, 2013
Mystery route- can someone ID this one?
Mystery route- can someone ID this one?


This is a bolted route that my climbing partner, Jeff, led, but we can not find the route on here or in a book. Can someone please help and ID it? It seemed to start right of Aspen Fantasy Land and then meet back up with it by the middle of the route.
By Drew Sylvester
Jun 16, 2014
Information on the road closures at Vedauwoo:
There was severe damage over last fall and winter as people drove on wet/muddy roads. An order was issued closing all roads on the Mountain through July 15, 2015. However, the vast majority of roads have now been repaired--all the main roads are open, and most of the side roads, though there are a handful of side roads (usually denoted by a letter after the number, e.g. 705 is the main, 705J is a side road) that are still closed for repairs. As such, the order has been rescinded for the area for this year but may go back into effect if the roads are damaged again this winter/next spring. People looking to climb at specific areas at Vedauwoo would do best to contact the Medicine Bow Forest Service office in Laramie and ask to be transferred to the Vedauwoo field office--the field office can provide more information on specific roads, while the Laramie office only has general information. 705J to Beehive Buttress is currently open.
By shanna fitzgerald
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014
As of 7/19/2014, 705J is unmarked and quick to miss, because it's so rutted out. It looks like a tough and steep 4x4 road, that most cars wouldn't want to head up. It gets better as you clear the steep part. 705JA is still marked and to the left. Expect uneven terrain and deep mud puddles.
By krisliane
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2014
Does anyone know if there is decent camping off the FS road good enough to take a group of kids so that we could towrope at this area?
By BartKensinger
From: Stillwater, OK
Jul 23, 2014
This place is super fun and a very nice break from the sharp and awesome Vedauwoo granite. The bolts are close, there are jugs everywhere, and it's all slabby. The hardest thing at the crag was a stray mini-pincher/chihuahua mix that was flexing on us for our canned chicken.

On a side note, this place is really hard to find. Maybe ask a local to drop a pin on the parking lot for you. You can see the place from afar, so you won't get lost once you find the trail.
By DawsAnie
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 6, 2014
Is this area frequently visited by Boy Scout troops or did we just happen to check this area out on the same day as a ton of youngsters? I'm all for kids learning how to climb, but when they take over an entire crag with their stuff and yell constantly, it's less than pleasant. :(
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 6, 2014
The Beehive is the *only* easily accessed, easy to moderate sport climbing area in all of southeast Wyoming. Since its discovery, it has become the area of choice to take new climbers, so I really don't recommend going on a weekend, any time the road is open. Best time to hit it: shortly after sunrise, on a Tuesday, when you need snowshoes to make the approach.