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Beefeater 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 6,422
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Fingerin' the Beef, Kepley on Beefeater.
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of those love it or hate it lines, certainly love until you fall off. An interesting 'approach' pitch starts at the right side of the NW face. Climb up some face holds before reaching a right-facing dihedral capped by a significant roof. Climb under this roof, tougher perhaps for the tall and lank as the decent feet are only 2 feet below the handjams, to the right and around the corner (5.9), belay above the roof back to the left on a spacious ledge.

Now, the serious fun begins. Climb the hand crack through some kinks, before it straightens out, heads steeper, and thins from hands to rattly fingers. Inconceivably wonderful.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3 inches, heavy on the 1 to 2 inch variety. Double cams in the #1 to #2 friend variety aid in the swift ascent typically needed on the second pitch. Bolted rap anchor at the top.



Photos of Beefeater Slideshow Add Photo
Nice tits.
Nice tits.
Who wants the Beef.
Who wants the Beef.
Pitch 1: traverse under the roof and around to the ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1: traverse under the roof and around to the...
Bret pulling the fun last move of the first pitch.
Bret pulling the fun last move of the first pitch....
Comments on Beefeater Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 23, 2014
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Sep 20, 2001

The crux pitch is short enough where probably only double #2.5 Friends/#1 Camalots are needed, unless you are really a seamstress. One of these is placed in the diagonal crack that leads to the upper dihedral section. The upper dihedral (crux) portion continually narrows, so you just keep dumping the next smallest piece as you ascend.

This good and non-sandbagged 10- provides nice relief from doing fatties that proliferate Vedauwoo.

By nolteboy
Apr 18, 2005

Vedauwoo Mega Classic - if only pitch two were twice as long! Pitch one is a soft man's version of Captian Nemo's 2nd pitch.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Apr 20, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Mega-classic is right! Maybe my favorite 10 at Vedauwoo.

By Umph!
Jul 18, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Horrendous. Greaseville. Squatville. Excellent pro. I'm sure the first few years of ascents were wonderful (even for lanky bastards like me) - but not no mo'! Taping is a MUST if you want any friction whatsoever - less you have small hands and tips. It's a classic alright. . . . Tape up.

By Brian Weinstein
Apr 27, 2006

Primo. 10a-ish for those with thin hands, 10c-ish for those with meaties. Not nearly as greasy as Cameron would have you believe, but probably not the best route in 90 degree sun.

By Justin Edl
May 13, 2006

The second pitch of this climb isn't greasy. You can avoid the awkward first pitch by traversing in from the right along a ledge, which is exposed and as a result you may want to rope up. I would recommend doing it this way unless you enjoy crunchy awkward moves that would be easier if you didn't have a head. I imagine Cameron's comments are mostly in regard to the first pitch. I can't imagine anyone not enjoying the second pitch for any other reason than length snobbery. It's absolutely spectacular and definitely one of the best 10's at Vedauwoo.

By Umph!
Jul 17, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My apologies. . . . It is true, the first pitch holds the contempt behind my bitch session. It looks really cool, but I just couldn't get in the groove and hated every bit of it (however, I am tall, and do have a head. . .). The second pitch is a fine finger to thin hand crack, although NOT the best in the 'Woo, and DOES require taping for good friction (yes, I did climb it in 90 degree heat) - at least for my abilities, which are nothing to many.

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 18, 2006

Pitch one offers fun, thought-provoking climbing. Yes, it can easily be avoided, but why? The tall and lanky can have fun with it as well.

By Justin Edl
Jul 18, 2006

"Pitch one offers fun, thought-provoking climbing. Yes, it can easily be avoided, but why? The tall and lanky can have fun with it as well."

Yeah, fun thought provoking climbing. Fun pontificating about the coefficient of friction between their fingers and the greasy poo smeared rock, thinking about how they would think if they didn't have a head. All the time wishing they had the legs of a gorilla so they could stand on those high smears without smashing their butt against the roof. Fun. It's worth doing once though. Reminds me of a quote about developing good judgment.

The 2nd pitch isn't THE best 10 at Vedauwoo, but ONE of them.

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 19, 2006

"Yeah, fun thought provoking climbing. Fun pontificating about the coefficient of friction between their fingers and the greasy poo smeared rock, thinking about how they would think if they didn't have a head. All the time wishing they had the legs of a gorilla so they could stand on those high smears without smashing their butt against the roof. Fun. It's worth doing once though."

Jammer,
Reminds me of a quote about whining. I'm sorry you don't enjoy the first pitch of the route. I enjoyed being able to find a rest in the most unique of positions, back against the roof while feet on smears. I also thoroughly enjoyed the climbing. Thus, when I repeat the route, I still do that pitch.

By Justin Edl
Jul 19, 2006

Brian,

I'm just trying to direct people to what routes I personally find enjoyable and worthwhile, which is of course a matter of opinion. The above post is in jest and sarcasm, and I'm a little bummed you couldn't see that. I was hoping people would get a good laugh if nothing else, and I did not intend that laugh to be at your expense. Most people I talk to, actually everyone but you and Rob Kelman, have not enjoyed the first pitch. I actually figured you were being a sandbagging ahole- "go do that one, it's real good". I think Rob recommends it for the resons I stated. I gather that from some words regarding route quality in the introduction of "Heel and Toe". I formally apologize if my words struck a cord with you. I assume we can agree to disagree about the quality of the first pitch. I'm glad you enjoy the first pitch.

Just to fill everyone in on the quote:

"Good judgment comes from experience, and experience often comes from...bad judgment." -RM Brown

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 20, 2006

Jammer,
Quality and grade, being highly subjective, probably take up over half of the discussion on this site. Funny, most of the people that I've talked to about the pitch (including Rob) enjoy it. I apologize if it sounded like I came off as a "sandbagging ahole," definitely not my intention. The pitch offers a good experience, as the gear is bomber and climbing unique. I concur that we are agreeing to disagree. I did like your sarcasm though.

By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 16, 2006

10.14.06, A. Wiedmann led the route. Thought P2 was grand--steep, strenuous, with spicy off-fingers near the top. Found that some left-shoulder friction was helpful in getting some additional power on the insecure stuff.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Don't miss out on the first pitch. It is a lot of fun, even if you are tall. There are good jams the whole length of the roof, unlike P2 of Captain Nemo.

The second pitch is hand size dependent. Add a couple letter grades, if you are wearing fat sweaty tape gloves. Classic pitch....

By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Oct 4, 2007

Terrific climb, makes me love the Voo all the more. P1 was enjoyable and not to be missed, and I'm 6'. Get the rests where you can before the crux finish on P2 and then gun for the top.

By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

THIS IS ONE GREAT CLIMB! The gear is great on it and the jams are good. It is splitter and flaring, it is classic Vedauwoo climbing. It is all about gunning for the rests and feeling the exposure!

By Cam Reade
Sep 27, 2010

Bring a couple of extendable draws maybe 3 total. Only gear needed is doubles from red Alien to #2 Camalot and a couple of big wires for the belay station on the 2nd. My rack is miss matched, so sorry if this doesn't help you with sizes. Plus one yellow Alien.

By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 30, 2012

Want the super-secret beta for pitch one? Go sport climbing and learn to high step!

Both pitches of this climb are excellent.

By bart cubrich 1
Jun 3, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree, p1 was is really cool and not as bad for tall people as it was made out to be (I'm 5'11").

By slim
Administrator
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

5'11" isn't tall :)

By WadeM
Jun 23, 2014

First pitch is a good warm up for Captain Nemo, and the second pitch is a good warm-up for Spectreman.