Beef Jerky 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob Rotert and Merrill Bitter, 1982 |
| Submitted By: | grk10vq on Jul 15, 2009 |
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Lance climbing Beef Jerky.
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Description An insecure and robust off-fingers/off-hands climb that follows a shallow, wavering crack. The crux of this route may be getting off the ground or better yet, remembering what you did once you have.
Desperately grovel the start for 7 feet to more sane terrain. Battle some tomfoolery and get past the bulge. Follow the obvious line around the corner to finish and end at a tree anchor.
A lot harder than its looks, this is a short, quick route thats over almost as fast as it begins. Hang in there !!
Location Beef Jerky sits in the midle of the Watchtower wall. Its directly left of Garden of Eden and to the right of Hungry for Heaven
Protection A very light rack and some slings; items to fashion an anchor.
All of the above or none of the above.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| This one requires a good spotter to keep you off the shark tooth at the base. The first piece is a bit high and the climbing isn't exactly casual up to that point so if your belayer is from the grigri-loving hands-in-pockets brobrah school, haul a pad or move along.
Sweat, grunt, kick stuff, curse, pull on other stuff and you might make it. 5.hard at the bottom, thin at the top, although I swear I spotted a hidden #1 camalot placement.
Edit to add: Damn, solo?? The thought scares me about as much as Stone they rejected. Lance = so damn strong! |
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.10c PG13
| My thoughts during the Beef of it...Please don't pop, please don't pop! Very exciting climbing. It would be a fergy classic if the Jerky didn't end so quickly. Definitely worth doing though. And if you're not into trad, bring a pad (mondo size). I placed a #2 for the beef and a couple of small manky nuts for the upper section. |
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| One tough piece of meat... yet I find myself gnawing on it occasionally. Judging by the amount chalk often found only in the first 10 feet it must get tackled often... and rarely (?) succumbs. |
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