This route starts on the far left (west) side of Plotinus Wall. Scramble up the gully to a short bolted wall. Just left of a handsize crack in a steep wall follow a line of bolts over a bulge. Gain the slab and climb past several bolts on good rock. Reach a ledge and follow bolts over a steep section into a short corner. Follow the corner to a large ledge and the anchor on the left. Excellent route with great protection.
Eleven bolts to a two-bolt anchor
BETA PHOTO: Bedtime Story, Plotinus Wall
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
|By Frances Fierst|
From: Munchweiler, Germany
Oct 29, 2003
I agree with Roger on this one. The gully is a pain, but it is a nice route. I found the crux to be getting to the third bolt. Maybe I missed something (or I'm short), but I ended up clipping off a crimp.
This is a route where it is better to bring your second up. The view is great! It was much nicer to belay from the large ledge, rather than lowering and belaying in the gully
|By Jay Eggleston|
Apr 20, 2007
A fun route. If you brought gear it is best to belay on the ledge behind the gully. If you did not bring gear this is not an option as a fall would pull the belayer off and into the gully.
|By Brad Schildt|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 3, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gear is really not needed for the belay. Simply clip the first bolt with a long piece of webbing for your belayer. On a breezy day, there is no wind in the gully, which makes for a very pleasant belay with an alpine feel to it.