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Climb thin slab (5.11a) right of Wilma past 4 bolts to join that route at it's 2nd bolt, climb along that route for 3 bolts and then head more or less straight up past 5 more bolts to a bolted anchor shared with Wilma. Note: Some of the bolts will benefit from the use of full-length runners instead of quickdraws to cut down on the rope drag which will likely occur.
- From the anchors atop Wilma a 60 meter rope will just reach the ground by rapping slightly diagonally to the base (100' rap); an alternative is to rap 80' to the anchors atop the first pitch of Blanketty Blank and then make another 50' rap to the ground.
Excellent face climbing on this route that will grab your attention from the start and then hold your interest as you wander upward finding the path of least resistance while making some cool moves. Highly recommended for the grade and possible to use as a harder, alternate start into the classic Fingertrip by traversing up and right from the anchors.
Located about 75' right of Blanketty Blank
and 30' left of Wilma, and a short distance left of The Slab, a large left-facing corner system left of Fingertrip.
12 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (100'), include some full-length runners for some of the bolts
Apr 11, 2016
Heard good things about this route - when to check it out and backed off before getting to the first bolt. It starts up against a tree off a boulder, the landing is pretty bad and the fall dangerous up to the first bolt. Got one move away and didn't commit, seemed pretty heads up. I'll come back with a stick clip, a diaper and a training bra and give it a go later to see how bad that next move is but didn't feel like stepping up to the plate that day.
Sep 11, 2016
Yes, to the first bolt is a little intense. Make sure to traverse left at the second bolt (crux), a little hard to route find on this, a real thinking mans route. There's a thin flake between bolt 10 and 11, don't pull out on it, just crimp on top of it, might blow and change the route.
70m reaches the ground from the anchor.