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 ADVANCED
Lower Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affirmative Action S 
Bedeviled S 
Bergers Bakeshop S 
Better Late than Never S 
Bush in a Blender S 
Chopping Block S 
Diabolical S 
Evil S 
Good S 
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 
Muscle Crow S 
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 
Waiting to Procrastinate S 

Bedeviled 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne (2008)
Page Views: 570
Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jul 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Bedeviled begins on the arete and eventually moves left to a short crack over a bulge. The belay anchors of the Unnamed Crack are on the ledge above this bulge, but Bedeviled continues up and right without using these anchors. Move over another bulge (technical crux) and cruise to the anchors.

The variety of climbing and features (arete, face, traverse, and 2 bulges), makes this route an area classic! Well in my book:)

Location 

Look for the next arete to the right from Waiting to Procrastinate. Belay on a shelf just up and right from the "Unnamed Crack".

Protection 

12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor


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By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 9, 2009

Totally sweet!!!
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 28, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Super fun, sustained climbing on big holds. The route is cleaning up nicely (it's not any looser than any of the other routes in the Lower Grotto). I thought the first bulge, not the second, was the crux, but to each his own.