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 ADVANCED
Lower Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affirmative Action 
Bedeviled 
Bergers Bakeshop 
Better Late than Never 
Bush in a Blender 
Chopping Block 
Diabolical 
Evil 
Good 
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) 
Muscle Crow 
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) 
Waiting to Procrastinate 

Bedeviled 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne (2008)
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jul 13, 2009
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Description 

Bedeviled begins on the arete and eventually moves left to a short crack over a bulge. The belay anchors of the Unnamed Crack are on the ledge above this bulge, but Bedeviled continues up and right without using these anchors. Move over another bulge (technical crux) and cruise to the anchors.

The variety of climbing and features (arete, face, traverse, and 2 bulges), makes this route an area classic! Well in my book:)


Location 

Look for the next arete to the right from Waiting to Procrastinate. Belay on a shelf just up and right from the "Unnamed Crack".


Protection 

12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor



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By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 9, 2009

Totally sweet!!!

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 28, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Super fun, sustained climbing on big holds. The route is cleaning up nicely (it's not any looser than any of the other routes in the Lower Grotto). I thought the first bulge, not the second, was the crux, but to each his own.