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Bed-wetter 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: nbrown on Oct 9, 2013
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  • All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a variation to the last 2 pitches of "Captain Hooks Nameless Nightmare" - done in one long second pitch.

    P-1 Climb the first pitch of Capt Hooks and belay high in corner under roof.

    P-2 Probably about the same difficulty as pitch 1. Climb the regular easy second pitch, but instead of stopping to belay before the 3rd pitch traverse, continue up and left. Climb the steep and intimidating wall past funky cams and a bolt to an overhanging crack feature that leads to a small rest. From here move out the bulge and to the top. Belay on nice mossy ledges under a large roof. Traverse off climbers left to gain the actual summit. Note: the bolt is a bit reachy to clip, maybe you should skip it...


    Location 

    Var finish to Captain Hooks Nameless Nightmare on the Apricot buttress.


    Protection 

    Standard rack plus maybe a couple extra finger and hand size cams. 1 bolt.



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