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Bed Hog is located on the steep south face of The Wall of Winter Warmth. It is the bolted route just right of The Prisoner. Solo up to base (5-3) and look for four bolts and an anchor. BH and The Prisoner share the same start. Climb a thin crack (5-ll) up to a bolt out right. A solid orange TCU can be placed between bolt two and three. Power up for a reachy punch to a good flat edge. Three stars for position.
Small wire, TCUs up to orange and quick draws.
Dec 2, 2012
Killer route, big headwall looming over the canyon, hard boulder-problem crux. If you want to bring a pared-down rack, we had:
•For belay at base, Metolius red, big stopper, Metolius green (black would work OK, too)
•To get to first bolt: Metolius yellow, then black, then orange
•Metolius orange between second and third bolts.
Good eye on the FA!
|By Chris Weidner|
Dec 2, 2012
The approach is a little more of a hassle than most BoCan cliffs, but not by much. We climbed the first pitch of Mordor then scrambled another 40 feet to the base, where there's a decent belay ledge. Alternatively, you can scramble in from the side at low, albeit loose, fifth-class.
In early December, it's in the sun from about 10am until 2pm.
Great work Pat, Duncan, and Steve!