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Early Bird
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Bed Head T 
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Bed Head 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Bryce Perkins, Tyler Cline, 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The line on the far right.

Description 

At first glance, there aren't too many reasons to get in bed with this one. Short. Wide. Kind of Ugly.
But a wise friend once told me to flirt with the ugly girls too. First of all, they probably think you're ugly. Second, they might be kind of fun. At least this one has a wild finish!

Scramble to the base and climb the wide-ish crack to a stance. Unless you're just way into it, you can use the huge jugs instead of jamming. Then face climb on surprisingly huge jugs to the handcrack. If you miss the beta on the finish mantle you'll be making it far, far harder.

Location 

Right of Early Bird, the obvious wide to hand crack.

Protection 

a medium nut, one set of .5 to #4 camalots. bolted anchor.


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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 29, 2010

Steeeeeeeeep! Way juggier than it looks with lots of great feet which helps in keeping the grade reasonable. The bad beta finish straight up from the bomber hand jams is as described: way harder.
By MFL
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 12, 2012

i went for the straight up finish and with a heel hook, it was actually one of the easier moves on the climb. I had a really really hard time on this one. Definately a climb to prove, "it's all 5.9". Those "jugs" we barndoor laybacks on suspect rock. Bring 2x#3's. One to protect the gravely flaring start, one for the top-out. Good training for those sandbagged alpine finishes, otherwise horrible training for confidence. Tick fever felt a lot easier after this one! Regardless, thank you for taking the time to clean and anchor it :)
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 6, 2014

Well, it's worth it for the finishing move. And it's a few pounds cleaner today after my friend and I pulled and pushed rock off of it while climbing.