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El Segundo Buttress in the back.
P-1 start at a left-leaning dihedral which gains a ledge. Negotiate some brush then head up a right-leaning layback, over a small roof (pretty stiff for .7) and to a tree belay stance, flake for anchor.
P-2 Climb up and right to an arete with nice jams and gear to a wild roof move (lieback) and another 20 or so feet to a belay.
P-3 Up and right to a stem/face. Crack comes and go and with it a little run-out. A welcome fixed piton and more moves leads to a bolted belay out right.
P-4 Follow fins up and right to a small bulge. (for some reason, someone put a bolt right where there's some good gear. Nice 3/4 placement) Follow up and right (more bolts?) to a belay at the bottom of a large flake. Fourth class leads to the summit.
Getting down is fine, but do it in the light. Your goal, once getting down sandy ledges and brushy slopes is to aim for a notch to the South. (Think Mountaineers route on Whitney but in reverse) Follow this along the base of the El Segundo Butt and back to your packs.
Gear to 3 1/2.
Up in red, down and approach in blue.
Diana leads the second half of the first pitch 5.7
Looking down the second pitch at the 5.9 crux. Sw...
Looking up P3 - more awesome climbing.
BETA PHOTO: Looking back up the descent gully from below.
|By Travis Madsen|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 18, 2010
The bolted belay referred to in pitch three is left of the fixed piton, not right. There are two bolts above a sloping ledge.
|By Richard Shore|
May 14, 2012
P1, as described above and shown in the croft topo, took 2 pitches for us due to rope drag (nasty vertical bushwhacking!). Liebacking the corner will certainly make it feel harder than 5.7. Jamming it straight in was pretty cruiser. After the crux roof on P2, it is easy to get off-route by following the thin hollow flake up and left to a nice bolted belay. I believe this is part of the route Chortle, 5.10b. Decently protected knob and slab climbing (5.10a/b) leads up and left past 7? or more bolts (1/4" buttonheads, in good condition) to a bolted belay out left. Realizing I was in more difficult terrain, I was able to manage an escape right after 6? bolts to regain the bolted anchor atop P3 of the Beckey Route, on the sloping ledge as described above. The upper pitches have some spicy runouts on 5.8 ground with some route finding; I can't say I'd recommend this one for a noobie 5.9 leader.
All in all, a great outing, varied and classic at the grade. If you start by climbing the Premier Route on the Premier Buttress, it makes for an incredible full day of climbing (~11 pitches). Bring walk off shoes! We didn't, and it sucked bigtime.
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 31, 2012
Excellent route with four fantastic, unique and exposed pitches after the initial bushy start.
P1 - Break this into two pitches with the first belay just above the small tree above the large ledge - finger sized cams or 3" cams in the dihedral. Above is great climbing with the tricky overhang. If you figure out how to mantle this, it is easy 5.7. Belay above and right with slings on big black knobs and flake. 5.7 - 165 feet total.
P2 - Thin cracks with wild position head up to the intimidating roof with great hand size pro. Climb ~20 feet above the roof, a sharp thin flake leads left, but go right to a finger crack and small ledge to belay. 5.9 - 70 feet.
P3 - Head up the intermittent finger crack with some easier run-out face to a pin. You should try to back this pin up. Continue stemming above the pin about 10 feet to a bomber stopper placement and then left to the bolted belay. 5.8 - 120 feet.
P4 - There is no pro for +20 feet from the belay, make sure to clip the belay as your first pro to avoid a dangerous fall. Face climb up the fin to an intermittent crack (small brass nut placement possible) leads to a welcome bolt 5.7R. Continue up the intermittent crack past 2 more bolts and good gear to a bulge 5.8. Above pass 5 more bolts on fantastic friction and thin slab climbing to a ledge with a 2-1/2" to 4" crack to belay. 5.8 - 170 feet.
P5 - Continue up low 5th class terrain all the way to the summit. 200 feet.
Descent: Cross the summit and follow sandy 3rd class ledges all the way east to a short (30 feet) 3rd class gully down climb just below the summit ridge, hidden by small pines. Down sandy scree and contour back west around the base to the notch between El Primero and El Segundo.
Gear: A good selection of small stoppers and small cams. Double cams through #2 Camelot, 1-each #3, #4 Camelot. Small brass nuts could be handy for P3 & P4 but not necessary.
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 31, 2012
As of July 2012, strangely enough, all the protection and belay bolts except the 3rd to the last bolt on P4 are new.
This one bolt is a half out button head with no hanger. Have a small wired stopper with the cable pulled out to loop around this bolt and snug the stopper up tight. Yikes!
Hopefully some wonderful person will replace that bolt some day soon.