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El Segundo Buttress
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Beckey Route T 
Beckey Route direct start T 
Chortle T 

Beckey Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 750'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Fred Beckey and Mike Heath, March 1971, FFA Dean Hobbs, Will Crljenko, February 1977
Page Views: 4,544
Submitted By: Bruce Willey on Jul 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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The big corner on pitch 1.

Description 

P-1 start at a left-leaning dihedral which gains a ledge. Negotiate some brush then head up a right-leaning layback, over a small roof (pretty stiff for .7) and to a tree belay stance, flake for anchor.

P-2 Climb up and right to an arete with nice jams and gear to a wild roof move (lieback) and another 20 or so feet to a belay.

P-3 Up and right to a stem/face. Crack comes and go and with it a little run-out. A welcome fixed piton and more moves leads to a bolted belay out right.

P-4 Follow fins up and right to a small bulge. (for some reason, someone put a bolt right where there's some good gear. Nice 3/4 placement) Follow up and right (more bolts?) to a belay at the bottom of a large flake. Fourth class leads to the summit.

Location 

Getting down is fine, but do it in the light. Your goal, once getting down sandy ledges and brushy slopes is to aim for a notch to the South. (Think Mountaineers route on Whitney but in reverse) Follow this along the base of the El Segundo Butt and back to your packs.

Protection 

Gear to 3 1/2.


Photos of Beckey Route Slideshow Add Photo
Up in red, down and approach in blue.  <br /> <br />Becky Route, El Segundo Butt, Whit. Portal
Up in red, down and approach in blue.

Becky Rout...
El Segundo Buttress in the back.
El Segundo Buttress in the back.
Looking up to the roof on P2/3 (depending on how you do the start) this the 5.9 pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up to the roof on P2/3 (depending on how y...
Diana leads the second half of the first pitch 5.7
Diana leads the second half of the first pitch 5.7
Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Looking down the second pitch at the 5.9 crux.  Sweet climbing!!
Looking down the second pitch at the 5.9 crux. Sw...
The start or P2/3 (depending on how you do the start) this the 5.9 pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The start or P2/3 (depending on how you do the sta...
Looking up P3 - more awesome climbing.
Looking up P3 - more awesome climbing.
The start of the last real pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the last real pitch.
Looking back up the descent gully from below.
BETA PHOTO: Looking back up the descent gully from below.
The start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route.
Summit shot with Will
Summit shot with Will

Comments on Beckey Route Add Comment
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By Travis Madsen
From: Denver, CO
Oct 18, 2010

The bolted belay referred to in pitch three is left of the fixed piton, not right. There are two bolts above a sloping ledge.
By Richard Shore
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

P1, as described above and shown in the croft topo, took 2 pitches for us due to rope drag. Liebacking the corner will certainly make it feel harder than 5.7. Jamming it straight in was pretty cruiser. After the crux roof on P2, it is easy to get off-route by following the thin hollow flake up and left to a nice bolted belay. I believe this is part of the route Chortle, 5.10b. Decently protected knob and slab climbing (5.10a/b) leads up and left past 7? or more bolts (1/4" buttonheads, in good condition) to a bolted belay out left. Realizing I was in more difficult terrain, I was able to manage an escape right after 6? bolts to regain the bolted anchor atop P3 of the Beckey Route, on the sloping ledge as described above. The upper pitches have some spicy runouts on 5.8 ground with some route finding; I can't say I'd recommend this one for a noobie 5.9 leader.

All in all, a great outing, varied and classic at the grade. If you start by climbing the Premier Route on the Premier Buttress, it makes for an incredible full day of climbing (~11 pitches). Bring walk off shoes! We didn't, and it sucked bigtime.
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 31, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Excellent route with four fantastic, unique and exposed pitches after the initial bushy start.

P1 - Break this into two pitches with the first belay just above the small tree above the large ledge - finger sized cams or 3" cams in the dihedral. Above is great climbing with the tricky overhang. If you figure out how to mantle this, it is easy 5.7. Belay above and right with slings on big black knobs and flake. 5.7 - 165 feet total.

P2 - Thin cracks with wild position head up to the intimidating roof with great hand size pro. Climb ~20 feet above the roof, a sharp thin flake leads left, but go right to a finger crack and small ledge to belay. 5.9 - 70 feet.

P3 - Head up the intermittent finger crack with some easier run-out face to a pin. You should try to back this pin up. Continue stemming above the pin about 10 feet to a bomber stopper placement and then left to the bolted belay. 5.8 - 120 feet.

P4 - There is no pro for +20 feet from the belay, make sure to clip the belay as your first pro to avoid a dangerous fall. Face climb up the fin to an intermittent crack (small brass nut placement possible) leads to a welcome bolt 5.7R. Continue up the intermittent crack past 2 more bolts and good gear to a bulge 5.8. Above pass 5 more bolts on fantastic friction and thin slab climbing to a ledge with a 2-1/2" to 4" crack to belay. 5.8 - 170 feet.

P5 - Continue up low 5th class terrain all the way to the summit. 200 feet.

Descent: Cross the summit and follow sandy 3rd class ledges all the way east to a short (30 feet) 3rd class gully down climb just below the summit ridge, hidden by small pines. Down sandy scree and contour back west around the base to the notch between El Primero and El Segundo.

Gear: A good selection of small stoppers and small cams. Double cams through #2 Camelot, 1-each #3, #4 Camelot. Small brass nuts could be handy for P3 & P4 but not necessary.
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 31, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

As of July 2012, strangely enough, all the protection and belay bolts except the 3rd to the last bolt on P4 are new.

This one bolt is a half out button head with no hanger. Have a small wired stopper with the cable pulled out to loop around this bolt and snug the stopper up tight. Yikes!

Hopefully some wonderful person will replace that bolt some day soon.
By jeremy freeman
Sep 25, 2012

The "button head" on P 4 is a rivet.
By Tradoholic
Jul 8, 2013

Good route, the slab 4th pitch was a nice cherry, save for the rivet! Replace all bolts, place one next to a crack but don't replace the rivet? I wonder the logic. Regardless, thanks for the new bolts, there's a few spicy moves.
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Aug 16, 2013

Nobody takes himself more seriously than Fred Beckey.
Nobody takes himself more seriously than Fred Beckey.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good route, here's some more info.

P1 - We split this into two pitches as suggested above, since the party before us had brutal rope drag and had to belay below the overhang. This worked fine, but I bet you could do it in one pitch, without too much drag, if you run the rope to the right of the big bushes on the ledge. Depending on your hand size, the corner may be easier to jam, layback, or even face climb to the left in places.

P2 - I thought that the moves around the arete into the small crack were harder/more committing than the roof, but it probably depends on your height and skill set. There is a fixed pin right before the roof and good pro in the roof itself. Make sure you have some finger sized gear for the belay at the end of the pitch.

P3 - Delicate climbing with intermittent pro.

P4 - Either some bolts have been chopped, or the above count is off. There are currently two bolts before the 5.8 bulge, not three. I was able to set a good, tiny brass offset about halfway before the first bolt, which made the runout less scary. After the bulge, there are three bolts and a rivet, not five bolts. I missed the rivet, which is between the first two bolts on this section, and almost blew it big time when a foothold broke right before the second bolt. I was on some flakey holds, a little off-route to the left of the line. You should go up and right from the first bolt to get to the rivet, even though it's steeper, less featured climbing. Hopefully, someone will replace the rivet with a real bolt in the future.

P5 - We came up a little short with a 60m rope and had to do a mini pitch to get to the summit ledge. A 70m would likely reach without any problem.

Descent - We traversed too far left (facing downhill) on the descent and ended coming down a gully between Premier Buttress and the Roadwork Wall. This worked out ok, but it probably would have been better if we had cut back right at some point and found the correct gully between Premier and El Segundo.

All in all, a good adventure and a worthy climb.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
May 28, 2014

Climbed this in 2005, before the new guide book. On pitch 2 we did the obvious corner to roof traverse that takes off straight above the belay. With micro nuts and nut tool to clean the placements, it takes just enough pro. Goes at about 5.9 PG with the roof being fairly committing.

On P3, we also followed the flake out left and joined the "obvious" line of off-route bolts. Not my best day of route finding. By staying on route next time, it will be like my first time!
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just did the route - there are 5 real protection bolts total on pitch 4. And the one pretty useless and not necessary rivet.

The climbing is pretty mellow with nice rock. I liked the first pitch best as it actually makes you think in a few places. As mentioned above this pitch is perfectly reasonable as a long pitch to the tree if you don't put pro in way to the left on the ledge. The crack on the second pitch is pretty but over in like two moves of super positive liebacking. You can get small brass nuts in on the first part of the 4th. I think the "5.8" bulge on the 4th pitch is the crux of the climb.

If you get to a cliff on the descent you went down too soon - go back up a move east a little more.