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This climb ascends the right hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. The line is pretty good and would be much better were it not for a huge ledge 1/2 way up which interrupts the climbing quite significantly. This line seems to get fewer ascents than the others at the same cliff. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.
Start at the far right-hand side of the buttress, climbing perhaps 10 meters up a handcrack to reach a ledge, tehn continuing up furher in a similar line for the top. Once topped out, move up and left to reach the set of bolt anchors of Split Personality (up and left) to belay. Rap with a 60M rope to descend.
If the lien were more singular, I'd have given it more stars.
This climb is quite well protected with a few sets of cams, mostly hand-sized. It is a nice and largely bomber handcrack and takes good pro. Running out a few easy sections however, may be the best bet due to the fact that a 15' ledge interrupts the route about 1/2 way up.
Almost done. Photo by Neale Brain.
|By Woody Stark|
May 20, 2004
Not that it's a big deal but I believe the 5.8 rating in Bartlett is correct for this route. It's also an enjoyable climb.
|By Joseph Lee|
Oct 14, 2005
This is another fun route. Cool step across start and long reach past a wide section. The upper crack has a nice section of hands. If you are there, might as well do it.
From: Palm Desert, CA
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I agree with the suggestion of a 5.8 rating. Some protection not the greatest, so be advised this might not be the best choice for a new leader.
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 6, 2011
I though it was a pretty fun handrack. The ledge kind of screws it up yes, but still good.
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Good jams, worth doing if in the area knocking out all the other great climbs.
|By Tommy G.|
From: Irvine, California
Oct 28, 2013
If you run across the ledge real fast, jump into the upper crack section, and forget the ledge ever happened, this is a great jam!