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Beckey's Wall Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
3rd Crack Over T 
Axis of Evil Arete T 
Beckey's Wall T 
Cheetah T 
Date with Fate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
Needle's Eye Variation T 
Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
Split Pants T 
Sweet Jane Variation T 
Tarzan T 
Tingey's Direct T 
Tingey's Terror T 
Tingey's Torture T 

Beckey's Wall Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5729, -111.7529 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 75,805
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 25, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings with lines 1) Cheetah w/ ...
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Description 

The section of the large Gate Buttress that is just to the right of the Dihedrals Area is the Beckey's Wall area.

The starts to some great moderate routes reside here, including the popular, eponymous classic Beckey's Wall (5.7) and Tarzan (5.10a). Tarzan can also be linked up with Tingey's Terror and Tingey's Torture to make one of the longest routes in the area (~11 pitches).


Getting There 

Park at the Gate Buttress parking area 1.25 miles up the canyon. Take the trail that passes the Gate Boulder, heading straight north from the road.

A good trail climbs up to rock below the Dihedrals Area. Follow the trail right along the base a short distance, then scramble up slick third-class slabs to a ledge system and the start of the climbs.


21 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',6],['5.8',6],['5.9',5],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beckey's Wall Area:
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   
Sweet Jane Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Tingey's Terror   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Tingey's Direct   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 120'   
Split Decision   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Tingey's Torture   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Fingertrip Variation   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Date with Fate   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Pebbles and Bambam   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 110'   
The Orange Sling   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
"Elementary My Dear Watson"   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Tarzan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Cheetah   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
Split Fingers   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 145'   
Browse More Classics in Beckey's Wall Area

Featured Route For Beckey's Wall Area
bobber, solid

Fingertrip Variation 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Beckey's Wall Area
A very exciting line up a vertical crack just right of the vertical portion of Beckey's Wall. Start on Beckey's, and step right and go right up thin flakes, small crimps, and exhillarating liebacks. This route is every bit as good as Beckey's....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Beckey's Wall Area Slideshow Add Photo
Cheetah and surroundings w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings w/o lines
Dihedrals to the left, Beckeys wall corner in the center, Tingeys moves up and right.
BETA PHOTO: Dihedrals to the left, Beckeys wall corner in the ...
Beckey's Wall w/ traverse to Pebbles and Bambam from road.
BETA PHOTO: Beckey's Wall w/ traverse to Pebbles and Bambam fr...
Comments on Beckey's Wall Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Gitlin
Aug 31, 2006

Ahhh ... nothing quite like a 15-foot 5th class boulder problem, followed by a traverse with consequences -- all disguised as "4th class," in classic LCC understatement. As someone once told me, "in Little Cottonwood, anything less than 5.6 is considered 4th class." Some of the more wary among us might actually choose to protect that scramble and traverse, and even be lowered by our bolder partners.

By James Garrett
Nov 29, 2007

This is a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:

HELLO YES I DID THE ROUTE WITH ROSLYN STEWART THE GUIDEBOOK PEOPLE SURE ARE SLOW GETTING IT CHANGED I KNOW ERIC B TOLD THEM MORE THAN ONCE WE DID NOT PLACE A BOLT ANYWHERE LIKELY WE RAPPPED FROM PITONS OR TREES ? MY GUESS IS THAT WE DID IT IN 2 PITCHES I HAVE A SHOT ON THE CLIMB, LOOKING DOWN A POOR BUT VISIBLE PHOTO
ACROSS THE CANYON YES KOR AND I DID SOMETHING I THHINK THE BOOK PROB HAS IT RIGHT

THINKING OF MAYBE GOING ARAPOLES IN OCTOBER

------------------------
LET ME KNOW
IF YOU KNOW THE G-BOOK AUTHOR, GIVE HIM THE WORD

ps I WONDER WHAT THE UNABOMBER'S E MAIL IS??? I COULD SEND HIM AN E MAIL AND TELL HIM I USED HIS NAME IN CONNECTION WITH A WEIRDO
CHEERS BECKEY

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 29, 2007

Thanks, James. I took the liberty of putting your comment and the relevant portion of the letter (edited for capitalization and punctuation) in a "History" section under the Beckey's Wall description.