Beckey-Stanley  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Darryl Cramer, Jon Nelson Submitted By:  Jon Nelson on Sep 23, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Near the end of the traverse on Beckey-Stanley.

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Description 

Climb to the fourth bolt of "900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores", then follow the seam-to-crack that goes left. The seam part at the start is the crux. The rest is a pumpy hand traverse, followed by a 10a finger crack going up to a belay.

Location 

Just left of the face-to-corner-to-roof routes of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Imagine your best student here". One has to walk up to an old stump to start the route.

Protection 

After the four bolts of "900", there are three bolts and two fixed pins on the traverse. The rest of the crack takes small finger-tip-sized nuts and cams. To reduce rope drag, use a long sling on the 4th bolt, just before traversing.