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West Bell Tower
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L to R R to L Alpha
Beckey Route 
Nerve, The 
Ring That Bell 

Beckey Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Dick & Rich Ream and Larry Evans in 1963. The FFA was done by George Lowe and Lenny Nelson in 1966
Page Views: 1,422
Submitted By: John Sirois on Sep 14, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The view of Little Cottonwood from the summit is p...
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Description 

1st: Thin left diagonalling ramp - crux and R part. Continue up shallow right facing corner to stance at shrubs.
2nd: Groove/offwidth pod to easier ground up and left to base of massive right facing corner - 5.8
3rd: Up the corner to belay stance above small tree as the rock starts to kitty litter - 5.7
4th: Up corner some more to underclind right out roof into smaller right facing corner. 20' up corner to another escape right at a smaller roof. Continue up worsening vague rock to summit ridge.


Location 

Descent down back and left to notch seperating West Bell and un-named granite formation downhill from it. Scramble down the horrendous loose notch back to base.


Protection 

trad - thin to 1"?



Photos of Beckey Route Slideshow Add Photo
Beckey Route, 5.9 R - in RED (zoom in for a better look)
BETA PHOTO: Beckey Route, 5.9 R - in RED (zoom in for a better...
One of many aluminum bashies found on the 1st and 2nd pitch.
One of many aluminum bashies found on the 1st and ...
Comments on Beckey Route Add Comment
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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 5, 2007

So how scary is the first pitch?

By John Sirois
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2007

I soloed so it wasn't, but there was fixed gear at the crux move ... I think it was a fat aluminum bashie? ... didn't look at it too close. If you can climb 5.10 wasatch granite I think you can pretty easily start the crux, back off to a rest & repeat until you figure out the right setup. Good rests before & after so just 10' max of trickiness.

By bsmoot
Dec 2, 2007

This route was somewhat historical. The first ascent was by Fred Beckey, Dick & Rich Ream and Larry Evans in 1963. The FFA was done by George Lowe and Lenny Nelson in 1966. This was a bold effort for the first ascent party as the last pitch, which is unprotected, was done in the old kletter shoes.

I noticed that Wasatch Rock Climbs also gave this route 2 stars (out of a 3 star rating system) Those earlier guides did IMO over rate the quality, but perhaps as you mentioned Tyler, it was for historical reasons. Les Ellison, who had done the route 3 or 4 times insisted that it was a great route, so I guess the quality rating stuck. Les loved Bells Canyon.

The route for me wasn't bad, because one of the upper pitches has a good corner crack, but there was a bit of gritty rock. I'd give it a MP rating of a two stars.

By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Did this route today, and I didn't think it was all that bad. A bit of crappy rock here and there, but not as bad as I expected. The summit scramble was the only place I felt the rock was total shite, but that is the nature of the Bell Towers. I actually like it in a sick sort of way. It adds to the adventure. Not to mention the view from the summit is what its all about!

As for the descent. We rapped the route in 5 Raps. From the summit, we scrambled south down then west to get back to the belay tree on top of P4 (west side of the low angle gully above the sweet undercling moves). We rapped off some webbing and a taped 'biner down to another tree with blue webbing and another taped carabiner. Another rap brings you to another 'biner with some cordalette on a smallish bush that we backed up with a nearby old bolt. Next rap down and east to a bolted anchor. From here a looong rap (we used every bit of a 70m) brings you to a horn with blue webbing and quick link. *alternate* There is some webbing up higher and to the west of this without any rap rings on it. I believe a 60m would make it to there, then to the ground, but one would need to bring a 'biner, rap ring, or similar.** One more rap easily brings you to the ground. (we angled east to get back to our packs.)

I feel that avoiding the heinous walk-off bumped my rating up to 2 stars.

By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Oh, and the first pitch was not 'R' IMO. There were fixed bashies and pitons all over. Some looked pretty new? Either way, It didn't feel 'Runout' to me.