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Beaver Fever S 
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Beaver Fever 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 1999
Page Views: 640
Submitted By: Elijah Flenner on Oct 6, 2001

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Description 

This route is located on the Upper Wall of the Clock Tower on the left-hand side. It is the three-bolt direct start to Leave It to Beaver. Leave It to Beaver is the third climb from the left on the Upper Wall of the Clock Tower.

Scramble up some easy rock to a ledge, then follow pockets and underclings to a left facing dihedral/flake. Rolofson's guide gives the climb 12c, but this must be a misprint. The climb is closer to 11a than 12c, and is not much harder than The Other One.

Protection 

6 bolts and 2 bolt anchor.


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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2002

There seems to be a dispute here to how hard this route is: 12c vs. 11a. Quite a difference. Is one person trying to sandbag or is the other person looking for an ego stroke. So, how hard does this route feel? Is it similar in difficulty to 12c's such as Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine", or Shelf Road's "Surreal Estate", or Boulder Canyon's "Gyro Captain". The first ascentionists put a grade on the route. Doesn't mean you can't disagree with them. They may even disagree with themselves if they did the route again.
By Elijah Flenner
Aug 21, 2002

I believe that 11a might be a little sandbagged for sport climbing in Boulder Canyon. I have not climbed any of the routes you mentioned above, but the day I did the route, my wife and a friend also did the route. My wife, Michelle, has never climbed a 5.11c, let alone 12c. She fell once, and that was past the crux. My friend, Ryan, did not fall at all, and at the time he had to make 12a projects. We all thought this route was 5.11. I thought it was about the same grade as The Joker at Easter Rock, which I had done the week before I did Beaver Fever. As with any rating, peoples opionion will be different, and it should not be left up to one person. Maybe other people will put in thier two cents and we can get a consensus. I am not trying to sandbag, but it might come naturally.
By Elijah Flenner
Jan 20, 2003

No where close to the difficulty of Gyro Captain.
By ac
Jul 21, 2005
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Softest graded climb I've done in BoCan. The "12c" part isn't even as hard as the upper part, which is the 11d crux of Leave it to Beaver. Decent route, nonetheless.
By Peter Hunt
Oct 4, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I also don't believe the people who rated this 5.11 were on route. The first bolt on Leave it to Beaver is a bit right of the easiest line and might look like a direct start.
By brain damage
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I think there are 2 variations to this climb. The one that goes out left is pretty easy. Then there's one that is directly under the bolts, I had to use a sloper and lay back to swing to a big jug. This was the hardest part of the climb. Hardest climbing I have done. I give it a 12a/b and 4 stars (my style of climbing).
By Charles Cundiff
Oct 17, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Four weeks out from hand surgery! Yeah it's no 12c, but it probably adds a letter grade to the difficulty of the route overall. 5.11d would be a good grade for this route anywhere.