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Beaver Cleaver 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: L Treiber, J Byrd 1972
Page Views: 1,287
Submitted By: Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 26, 2007
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Description 

This is one of the two exit pitches from the top of the Flying Buttress. Though better protected than the High Exposure exit, this pitch is still heads up, and stiff for the grade.

From the top of the flying buttress, climb straight up thin incut edges on exposed slab past several widely spaced bolts, aiming for the obvious right facing dihedral above. Just before you reach the dihedral, make a crux mantle onto a shelf a ways above your last bolt. Put some gear into the nice crack in the dihedral, and cruise to the top.


Protection 

Several finger to hand sized pieces, some quickdraws.



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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jun 26, 2007

Yep, falling from the crux wouldn't break any bones, but you might get some road rash! :)

By Bill Wright
Oct 2, 2007

I think this route is less protected than the High Exposure exit. It really only has the one bolt (before reaching the crack system) and a fall from just below that bolt or just before reaching the crack would be a nasty fall. The High Exposure Exit has two bolts. On each route they do share an extra bolt at the start, but this bolt is so low that it hardly counts as protection. You're going to hit the buttress regardless of this bolt. Also, High Exposure is 5.6 and has good holds. The Beaver Clever seems more like 5.9 to me and the crux is well above that bolt. That's my two cents anyway. I just did it two days ago and it was scarier than the pitches I did to get up there (Said and Done to Reunion) and nearly as hard. Full value pitch.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Feb 16, 2008

Huh, well..

I led this pitch because High E scared me too much. Go figure. ?

By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 10, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Won't break your bones? Falling before the second bolt would really hurt....