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 ADVANCED
Mean Mistreater Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beautiful Flyaway T 
Crab Corner T 
Crab Legs T 
Crab Salad T 
Feelin' Fertile S 
Irrational Inquirer T 
Mean Mistreater T,S 
Pegasus T 
Rich and Dave Route T 
Steppin in the Slide Zone T 

Beautiful Flyaway 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Fig, 1981. Direct: Grossman, Steiger, April 2, 1983 .
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Another typical Grossman FA. There are two starts, the original start, which traverses left onto the pinnacle’s face from a ledge high on the right side of the crag, and the “direct” start, which begins on Face It but soon leaves the crack and diagonals right to underneath an obvious roof and a pin. The original start gains the face above the roof from the right, whereas the direct start turns the roof. Either way, a potential 20-foot fall exists off the crux, and a healthy 5.8 runout is necessary to reach the top. The direct start boasts one of the most wild roof moves at Windy Point, worthy of the 3 stars given here (two stars for the original). As an added bonus, Beautiful Flyaway (with the direct start) is one of the only routes ever to be pictured in the Tucson Citizen, the local newspaper (6” by 13”, in color no less! (Nov. 14, 1985)).

By the way, rumor has it that the bolts on Jr. Gripper, installed in 1990, interfere with Beautiful Flyaway’s head game. If so, I suggest they be removed.

Location 

To the right of the Mean Mistreater is an obvious wide crack beginning well off the ground. The wide crack is Face It (5.9; FA: Rich Thompson, Steve Grossman, 1976). To the right of Face It is a somewhat freestanding pinnacle. Beautiful Flyway essentially climbs the face of the pinnacle.

Protection 

Wired stoppers and cams to 2”. I’m told that chains have been installed on top, but I'm not sure a 60m would be enough to reach the starting belay.


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