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Shanahan Crag
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Beau! 
Better Offer 
Great Expectations 
Identity Theft 
Leonine 
Prune Face 
South Face 
Southeast Ridge 
Southeast Ridge, North Crag 
When It's Right 

Beau! 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Julie Garrison
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Mar 8, 2003
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Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This blank-looking face yields a beautiful climb that is much better protected and easier than it looks. Start on the crack line about 20 feet to the left of the "real South Face." (Or start on the South Face crack and angle left to this route.) At about 50 feet, traverse right about 8 feet on an obvious break and follow a hairline crack to the top, enjoying the amazing and surprising face holds. Good pro, but skill with RPs is essential. A red Tri-Cam is helpful. Double ropes might also be useful. Belay at the ridge and either traverse down and right a few feet to a rap anchor (125-foot rappel) or head up to the summit.


Protection 

Standard rack plus RPs and Tri-Cams.



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By Dave Holliday
Nov 5, 2006

Surprisingly good climb. There's a lot of lichen on the route, so I don't think this gets much traffic at all. The holds were, for the most part, solid and I was never worried about pulling anything off. The traverse to the thin crack is airy but solid. There's no gear along said traverse and the first piece in the hairline crack after the traverse is an RP.

This isn't a great route for the aspiring 5.7 or 5.8 leader.

By Jo Holloway
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

From the perspective of following:

Dave put in some pretty small gear (black Alien; microstoppers) in a few places that would be more like mental pro. I wouldn't want to take a fall leading this route!

Having said that, this is a fantastic route. There are good holds all the way through with some nice little gymnastic moves to keep things spicy. It is such a treat to be able to climb on a face that still has a lichen garden. It gives the whole experience a good feral feeling!

You will use the same anchors as for the South Face to come down. Bring a 70m rope.