This is located a few routes climber's left and down the slope from the New Era dihedral. Look for a line of old fixed pins ascending a flake before trending left about 25 feet off the ground, where the flake peters out. Five feet left of the start is a line of coldshuts leading to a separate anchor, a hard 5.12. Your parter will belay off of a boulder right of the climbing line.
It has excellent rock and fun, steep moves. The thin crux comes between the first and third pins. Though old and some of them protruding more than you'd like, these said pins seem safe enough. There are two old bolts at the top.
7-8 Garden-style fixed pins.
|By Chamo Breslin|
Aug 11, 2004
In my opinion, a better climb than Diesel and Dust, which the guidebooks talk up more.
|By kevin jenkins|
Sep 4, 2004
Chamo is right when he says this is an under-appreciated route. Don't let the looks fool you- some of these pins are bomber, and some may not hold body weight. Back up what you can, and take it easy around the third bolt.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 28, 2005
Agreed - great line on excellent rock. The first few clips, in particular, make for fun pulling and body English.
|By Stewart M. Green|
Sep 19, 2005
Beat Me Up Scotty has a beefy 1/2" bolt with chain and stainless steel ring to back up the two old pitons at the anchors. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the replacement gear.
From: Denver, CO
Aug 13, 2006
Thanks for all your work in replacing stuff over there, Stewart, all the anchors look fantastic now!
Agree with the above. Great route with lots of fun small holds, lots of tensiony moves. The old pins look sketchy, but all of 'em felt bomber, and there's gotta' be one every 6' or so.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Jul 31, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First off, great climb! to the 4th pin involves lots of fun moves on tiny holds and sweet movements. After that, the climbing eases to 5.8+/5.9-.
Also, don't let the comments about the pins scare you off. On a scale of 1-10 for looking safe, I would rate the average garden pin a 3.5. These were at least 6. And the rock is not as soft as the typical red stuff everywhere else. It looks harder from the ground than it really is, don't worry!
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
As for Garden Standards, I would take a lead fall on every pin on that route.
Jan 24, 2012
One of my favorite Garden routes, and while I can't remember ever fallen on it, I feel like if I did, the pins would definitely hold. I trust most of the drilled angles in The Garden, more than the pitted flexing coldshuts I see on neighboring routes. Thanks for replacing the anchors, Stewart.
Jul 12, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This route is harder than 10d. It is possible to move a couple feet right at the first three pins and get the 10d rating, as a friend did today. Going straight up over the pins is harder and is how I've always done it.
Given the sporty nature of the line, I'd rate it using Shelf standards, for which it's pretty clearly around 11b. Way harder than others at the grade in the Garden, and harder than some of the 11a's in the Garden as well. Just my 2c.
Interesting that the low crux is protected by angle pitons while the upper easier climbing uses those manky ringed pitons.
Great route; brilliant moves through the short, well-protected crux.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Apr 15, 2014
I put this route off for a long time, because I've heard from fellow Garden goers it was super sandbagged in dirty...but I guess that inspired me today!? I finally did it and got the super fun OS and hardly believe it's 10d... 11a seems fair, since the crux is super short and just the start. In any case, a must do!