Beat Me Up, Scotty 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Mike Johnson, 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Chamo Breslin on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Moving through the fun flake moves on Beat Me Up S...
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Description This is located a few routes climber's left and down the slope from the New Era dihedral. Look for a line of old fixed pins ascending a flake before trending left about 25 feet off the ground, where the flake peters out. Five feet left of the start is a line of coldshuts leading to a separate anchor, a hard 5.12. Your parter will belay off of a boulder right of the climbing line. It has excellent rock and fun, steep moves. The thin crux comes between the first and third pins. Though old and some of them protruding more than you'd like, these said pins seem safe enough. There are two old bolts at the top.
Protection 7-8 Garden-style fixed pins.
Beautiful and positive rails at the top.
| The line. The climber is moving out of the crux s...
| Logan Berndt leading Beat Me Up, Scotty.
| A Morena vai sambar seu corpo todo balancar...
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| Comments on Beat Me Up, Scotty |
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By Chamo Breslin Aug 11, 2004
| In my opinion, a better climb than Diesel and Dust, which the guidebooks talk up more. |
By kevin jenkins Sep 4, 2004
| Chamo is right when he says this is an under-appreciated route. Don't let the looks fool you- some of these pins are bomber, and some may not hold body weight. Back up what you can, and take it easy around the third bolt. |
By Anonymous Coward Jun 28, 2005
| Agreed - great line on excellent rock. The first few clips, in particular, make for fun pulling and body English. |
By Stewart M. Green Sep 19, 2005
| Beat Me Up Scotty has a beefy 1/2" bolt with chain and stainless steel ring to back up the two old pitons at the anchors. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the replacement gear. |
By Stubby-Ian From: Denver, CO Aug 13, 2006
| Thanks for all your work in replacing stuff over there, Stewart, all the anchors look fantastic now! Agree with the above. Great route with lots of fun small holds, lots of tensiony moves. The old pins look sketchy, but all of 'em felt bomber, and there's gotta' be one every 6' or so. |
By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Jul 31, 2009 rating: 5.10d
| First off, great climb! to the 4th pin involves lots of fun moves on tiny holds and sweet movements. After that, the climbing eases to 5.8+/5.9-. Also, don't let the comments about the pins scare you off. On a scale of 1-10 for looking safe, I would rate the average garden pin a 3.5. These were at least 6. And the rock is not as soft as the typical red stuff everywhere else. It looks harder from the ground than it really is, don't worry! |
By mountainmicah83 From: Colorado Springs Oct 22, 2011 rating: 5.11-
| As for Garden Standards, I would take a lead fall on every pin on that route. |
By davelewis Jan 24, 2012
| One of my favorite Garden routes, and while I can't remember ever fallen on it, I feel like if I did, the pins would definitely hold. I trust most of the drilled angles in The Garden, more than the pitted flexing coldshuts I see on neighboring routes. Thanks for replacing the anchors, Stewart. |
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