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Beat Junkie 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eric Mushial, 1999
Page Views: 4,436
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006
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Tommy Caldwell on Beat Junkie

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Description 

Beat Junkie is the best 5.13b at Rumney if not in all of New England. Though Predator gets most of the attention because of it's photogenic position, Beat Junkie has better moves, better rock, and a better overall feel.

Start on the raised ledge, on the far left-hand side. Beat Junkie climbs up the Skewer, a 5.12c fingercrack, before veering right up the overhanging wall. This fingercrack is not to be underestimated. For many, it is the crux of the route. Tall climbers may find a repreive by reaching left to the arete.

Once the crack is passed, the climbing remains pumpy until a great kneebar can be found. Rest here and then negotiate The Cave, a square cutout in the rock. The redpoint crux is higher still and consists of lockoffs on flat crimpers and a desperate slap to a small edge waaaay up on the upper slab.

On redpoint it is possible to fall from almost any move on the climb, from the terrible jams on the Skewer to the funky Cave moves to the dreaded topout on the slab. Because of its sustained climbing and varied moves, Beat Junkie is a deserved classic.


Protection 

Bolts. A right knee pad is very helpful.



Photos of Beat Junkie Slideshow Add Photo
Sean on Beat junkie.
Sean on Beat junkie.
Beat Junkie climbs near the skyline. The start can be recognized by the long yellow draw in shaded rock. The Skewer fingercrack splits the wall above. From there, the climb angles right through tiered roofs.
BETA PHOTO: Beat Junkie climbs near the skyline. The start can...
Comments on Beat Junkie Add Comment
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By Joe Terravecchia
Oct 28, 2008

One of the best at Rumney. The knee bar a few feet to the right of the one that Tommy is using is even better. No hands at the cave too.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

While I have not done a ton of stuff at Rumney (not a local), I would say that this route is the best that I have done there. For that matter, it is one of the better sport routes I have done anywhere. Its a long route on flawless stone with powerful, yet technical climbing, and it has both crack and face climbing with an exhilarating finish. Classic.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

I thought this was led on gear in the 80s...Was there a prior FA to Mushial's?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 26, 2009

To my knowledge, Beat Junkie was not led free on gear before Eric's FA. Maybe you're thinking of the Skewer, which was done on gear first.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Oct 28, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Yeah, that must be it. An old schooler was there one day and he said, "My buddy lead that on gear in the 80's." "That" must've been Skewer.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 2, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Surprised my self today by sending this route with relative ease after having a really hard time on it in the past. i think my lack of expectation helped me stay relaxed and just enjoy the movement which is spectacular! one of the best routes i've climbed at Rumney.