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BETA PHOTO: Beat Box 5.11+/5.12-
The majority of the climbing on this route is 5.10 and climbs unique features for Index. The crux finish is wildly steep and exposed - fun!
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Jungle Fun/Tempituous to the belay. Much better climbing than appears from the ground. 5.10 - bolts.
Pitch 2: Follow the bolted flake as for the start of pitch 2 of Tempituous. After the second bolt, trend left and follow flakes and a featured face to a belay stance. By using slings, this pitch can be linked with P1 for a monster 180 ft pitch (20 draws). 5.10 - bolts and 1 medium nut between the second and third bolt.
Pitch 3: The final pitch climbs through two fun 5.10+ bulges/roofs to a tenuous traverse left. A two bolt boulder problem through the main roof with 250ft at your back guards the chains. This pitch is still a little scruffy, but the climbing is good. 5.11+/12- bolts and a blue and yellow tcu protects the moves to the first bolt.
Descend by lowering from the top pitch to the top of P2. Two raps from the top of P2 get you to the ground (100ft and 70ft). Rap anchors have been installed in the plumb line under pitch two. Take care with a 60M rope.
This route is located on the far left of the upper wall before the trail to Earwax. Shares the start with Jungle Fun and Tempituous.
12 draws, 1 medium nut, 1 blue tcu, 1 yellow tcu.
By Ben Gilkison
Jan 14, 2015
11d/12a seems about right. Probably same grade as the crux of Tempitchuous. The 2nd 5.10 pitch is remarkable.