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The Canal Zone
Routes Sorted
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Aretnophobia S 
Batso Canal S 
Bear's Choice S 
Beasto S 
Box of Rain S 
Buckets of Rain S 
Cut Loose S 
Dirt Trek T 
Gondolier Arete S 
Holiday Road S 
Ivy League S 
Lambada S 
Lame Line T 
Levada S 
Made In The Shade S 
Panama Red S 
Ripple S 
Route Canal T 
Snake Eyes S 
Turkey Jerky S 
Venice Beach S 
Walking With A Ghost S 
Whopper, The S 

Beasto 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kirk Miller with Kai & Courtney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,086
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (249)
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Eric on Beasto approaching the crux clip.

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun Alley Oop move gets you past the first clip. Then up and left around the arete to snag the huecos, then back to the prow to finish. For bonus points avoid the huecos out left and go straight up the arete at the seventh bolt.

Location 

This is left of Turkey Jerky, see the topo photo.

Protection 

11 bolts to ring & chain anchor.


Photos of Beasto Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Well-protected fun start.
Well-protected fun start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the second bolt, fun route.
Above the second bolt, fun route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh high on Beasto.
Josh high on Beasto.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh leading Beasto.
Josh leading Beasto.

Comments on Beasto Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2016
By Kai Huang
From: Thornton, CO
Sep 1, 2008

Great route! Makes you think twice at crux!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Pretty clever route! Crux move was interesting and off balance. Holds are solid. Consider a long draw for the bolt around the corner. Nice work!
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Sep 10, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A longish draw might be helpful on the 7th bolt (around the corner), but the real key is to flip the rope around the arete after clipping the 8th bolt. Otherwise there's some rope drag.

Fun route! A crank at the start, cool undercling moves to a ledge, and a devious little crux on good holds. Well worthwhile.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I was surprised at how much fun this route was.... The start is a pumpy little jump, but then the nature of the climb changes and it goes up a long way on interesting moves.
By Niccole
From: Denver, CO
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This has the best start!!! I would go back just to do the start, kind of a bouldering move...but well protected and then the climb changes. Very fun.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Apr 28, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very nice! Good variety for a single sport pitch.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Sep 25, 2010

Definitely want to use some longer draws on the upper arete. Without the extra wiggle room, you can't really get the rope to run nicely. The shorter draws won't allow you to flip the rope back to the right side of the arete.
By Count Chockula
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 19, 2011

Fun climb, but soft even for 5.10-, maybe even a little contrived at the crux. The moves around/onto the arete seemed .9 at most. Not sure why the crux clip was on the face left of the arete proper. Seems like it should have been on the right side face of the arete in line with the other clips on the route. This would alleviate the need to use a longer draw and probably make the moves up the arete more 5.10ish. Then again, maybe I just did it wrong. I got suckered into using a couple chalked holds left of the arete while using the positive holds on the arete with my right hand.
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Aug 19, 2011

Easiest possible way, .9, but if you pull the direct arete and don't step left around the corner, pretty solid .10 so I'll go with .10-.
By Mahjoe
Aug 20, 2012

Super fun route! Definitely leave a longer sling on the 7th and/or 8th bolt to avoid rope drag.
By Zeffe
Jul 29, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Really fun. Nice variety and cool position high on the route. I thought the crux was tricky and do not agree with people above saying it goes at 5.9. Maybe I was missing the beta, but felt like 10b or so to me. Excellent climb for breaking into 10s, along with the other easy-ish 10s to the right of this route.
By Andres Fernandez
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Start is great and first 25 feet after is pretty straightforward.

Getting up to the face to turn the corner to the left is thought provoking.

Definitely some good intellectual problem solving on this route and nice variety of moves.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Aug 7, 2016

My new favorite at Canal Zone (even though I hate roofs). Relatively consistent climbing with a break in the middle to eyeball the crux. It felt like Eldorado climbing, lots of fun! I'd agree with Kirk's assessment 5.9 to 5.10 dependent on line chosen.

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