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Beastmaster 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ed Strang or Jean DeLataillade?, bolted by Luke Laeser
Page Views: 2,835
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Page sticking the crux of Beastmaster

Description 

Powerful overhung climbing on good holds to a powerful 4th clip, a long draw is nice. Then a well defined crux to a rest, to some thin technical, difficult when pumped climbing to the anchors.

Location 

The north arete that overhangs the stream. Between Honky Serial Killer and a short 5.12

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor


Photos of Beastmaster Slideshow Add Photo
Fun big moves on jugs turn the lip of the overhang before the technical arete.
Fun big moves on jugs turn the lip of the overhang...
This is how we roll in ABQ. M&M rockanieering on Beastmaster. HaHa, and yeah the boulder is THAT close.
This is how we roll in ABQ. M&M rockanieering on B...
Scott Crane on Beastmaster
Scott Crane on Beastmaster
Page starting up the rails of Beastmaster
Page starting up the rails of Beastmaster
Searching for holds on the thin arete that guards the anchors.
Searching for holds on the thin arete that guards ...
Once you stick the little edge you can compose and go again to a jug.
Once you stick the little edge you can compose and...

Comments on Beastmaster Add Comment
Show which comments
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 31, 2006

Would be a 4 star route if clipping the 4th bolt wasn't just as hard as the crux. Be careful if you skip it because of the large boulder not far away.
By Laeserguns
Sep 2, 2010

Super fun route if you don't fall while clipping and you have an excellent and attentive belayer. Bolted by Luke Laeser, although I'm pretty sure Peter Graham drilled the anchor holes. At the time Peter and I were bolting everything as fast as possible... and since I didn't have a job at the time I went to the Dungeon almost every day for a year or so... I don't recall who actually made the first ascent but I'd guess Ed or Jean.
By Eric Whitbeck
Aug 28, 2012

Why not move the bolt and make a four star route?
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

I've been working on this a bunch this summer and got on it again this evening. I haven't sent yet and it's significantly harder than anything I've climbed, so my opinion probably isn't worth much. I think the 4th bolt is in the ideal place if you clip it off the 1st jug after the crux; if it was much lower you would probably just clip it off the same holds used to clip the 3rd bolt, which is at waist level at that time and takes minimal effort. The easiest beta (I think, and what I'm told) through this section is to do the crux move left first, bump the left to the jug, and clip off that, which seems reasonable once you get past thinking about the boulder behind you to the right. It's sort of tempting to try to clip off the undercling or sidepull-pinch before the crux, but that's hard- don't do that. I've fallen off the crux a lot of times, it takes more power and reach than I seem to have, and the boulder doesn't seem too close any more. It was definitely scary for a while. (If anyone's heard of someone hitting it hard let me know and I'll postpone my project for a while.) Also, especially since your belayer can't see you, falling off the 5.11 slab at the top is exciting. My opinion is this climb is really good, I'm pretty psyched about it. Starting to work on this climb inspired me to start to learn how to climb steep routes.
By Eric Whitbeck
Aug 29, 2012

If George is projecting it and it is one of the harder lines he has tried than it is probably fine. My comment stems from the fact that DTP, a pretty strong lad, and the FA mentioned the problem of clipping. We have enough wacky routes in NM that if it is really a classic 12+ then it makes sense to make it as good as possible. Maybe DTP can chime in on if he thinks moving the bolt would solve the problem. I hope to try this route saturday and will post if it seems sketchy or not.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 29, 2012

Back when I did this route I was unwilling to do the crux without having the 4th bolt clipped. That boulder just seemed too close. I clipped from the left hand undercling and it was hard, harder than the crux for me, As George mentions this is not a great idea. Now I know a few people who have waited until the jug after the crux. So I think there are three places from which to clip the bolt.

1. From jug after the crux (kinda scary but no ones hit yet that I know of).
2. From the last good hold on the rail system before entering the crux. (Requires a double draw.) If I was to do this route again this would be my strategy.
3. From the undercling or sidepull crux holds (probably the worst idea)

The bolt is probably in a good location for clipping from the jug, and could be lowered a little to clip from the last good hold on the rail easier.

I'd say leave it where it is, so you have the option of clipping above or below the crux.

I should add that the bolt placement isn't bad, it's just a sustained section of the climb where any clip is going to be hard, and a boulder nearby so you don't want to take a big fall.
By djkyote
Aug 30, 2012

+1 for the double draw clipped before going into the crux. I'm not sure moving the bolt lower would be a good idea: you may fall close to the adjacent boulder when working the crux.
By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 1, 2012

I think it is a funky route and is fine being funky. The crux jug is a bit crumbly. Is the norm to lower in and place the draws? The double draw worked fine but I hung it on rap otherwise I agree with dtp or I guess you could do the crux without clipping and clip off the jug. That would be fun.
By djkyote
Oct 15, 2012

Thanks to whoever replaced the sketchy bolts at the anchor and replaced the carabiners.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Aug 26, 2014

It is far easier to pull the crux and clip the 4th bolt from the jug to the left of it. The fall is clean as long as you have an attentive belayer.