Beastie Boys 5.12d PG13
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Kennan Harvey and Jonathan Knight, 1997? |
| Submitted By: | jonathan knight on Aug 21, 2006 |
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Traversing across the upper slab on Beastie Boys. ...
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Description Start up a ramp then switch left to a jagged, chossy weakness that leads to a ledge 30 feet above. A bolt protected boulder problem off the right side of the ledge accessing the bottom of a right facing corner that quickly turns into an steep, underclinging, flake traverse. From the dead end of the flake, switch to the flake above and continue to traverse to the point where the undercling offsets to a small ledge. A bolt protected bulge looms above followed by another that finishes on a good size foot ledge. It could end here but noooo. Off the left end of the ledge, traverse past a bolt to gain the huecos in the bottom of a right facing corner that is shared with the Nostrum. At the top of the corner, the Nostrum goes right and Beastie Boys ends left with a mantel.
Location This route starts from a scrubby little alcove on top of about a 150 feet of diagonal scambling on the west wall of the Green A. Same as for the Butterfield Route, but head right up the ramp/corner to begin.
Protection 3 bolts, 2 fixed nuts, about 10 other pieces are needed so bring doubles from 1/2" to 2". Long slings are necessary. 2 bolt anchor with the dreaded rap hangers.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 4, 2008
| This route is really amazing. It links up so many improbable features to create a mega route. It has to be at the forefront of LCC's proudest lines- highly technical through one sequence, delicate and scary through another, explosivley powerful through another; it climbs like multiple 5.12 routes condensed into one. It sort of reminds me of a much harder version of Mother of Pearl. Protection is adequate, but not obvious nor straight-forward, and the exposure on the overhanging headwall is awesome! A full 70 meter rope puts you right back down at the scrubby belay ledge. Consider carefully soloing a steep 5.9 choss variant at the start (about 20 feet to the right of the Butterfield route) up to the ledge where you clip the first (thank God!) bolt. Put aside all your other projects and climb this route- more traffic will knock off the weathered rock-its as good as rock climbing gets! |
By christ
Oct 12, 2008
| By far one of the best routes in Utah. |
By jonathan knight
Oct 13, 2008
| Brad, there seems to be some confusion as to how it starts off the ledge, so I edited the location info, slightly. I think that the 5.9 variant you mention is the standard start, but I usually put in a piece or two. Nice job on the send! |
By Scott McLeod
Nov 1, 2008
| Harddd but brilliant(at least for us mortals). one of the most stellar lines around, if nothing else for its improbability. You get it all: power, delicacy, spook-factor. Get to it soon, it seems to be deteriorating bit by bit... |
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