Beast  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 31 May 2011 FFA: Peter Vintoniv and JG, 10 June 2011 New Route:  Yes Season:  Spring, Summer, and Fall Submitted By:  James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Beast from up canyon of crag approach trail. White...

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Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>> A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

From the bivy platform (sheltered, shaded and nice lunch and rope up spot), walk east along the base of the Beast until reaching its lowest point. White colored compact granite similar to that found higher on the creature's face marks the spot.

Pitch #1: An easy bulge past a bolt leads to white rock steep slab past 4 more bolts to easier ground. Climb through fun horizontal sections past 4 more fixed pitons and bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.

From this lower ledge, 3rd class past bushes straight up to gray rock under the white horned creature's neck. 30m

Pitch #2: Casual climbing past 1 bolt leads to a two-bolt belay at the Beast's neck. 5.6, 20m.

Pitch #3: Climb past 10 bolts through and above the left horn up very fun not so beastie moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 45m.

Pitch #4: Climb into the corners of the first roof. 1 piton, 1 bolt, and 1 thread protect the first beastly (pumpy!) bit and then continue up to a left veering hand crack under a steep roof to a bolt and then tip toe right to a two-bolt belay. 5.11a, 30m.

Pitch #5: Move right and around the corner and find easy ground to the top and a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 20m.

Walk off to the west gully.

Location 

Although the belays are bolted, most parties upon reaching the top may prefer to walk off to the north and follow a cairned western gully/trail back to the huge roofs sheltering the bivy platform at the feet of the Beast.

Protection 

QDs, set of C3s and Camalots to #3 and set of Nuts. A few shoulder slings helpful. Possibly doubles 0.3 to 0.75 and 2.0. Belays are bolted.

Photos of Beast Slideshow

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PV slaying the Beast's final pitch	Slabby crux of the 1st pitch of Beast.	Beastly flowers
Crux of the 3rd pitch of Beast.	The 2nd pitch belay on Beast.	Following the 3rd pitch of Beast.
Topping the first (of two) burly overhangs on the ...	Top of the second overhang (whew) on the 4th pitch...	Topo of the 2-4th pitch of the Beast.
Beware the poison ivy forest alongside the descent...