||Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 31 May 2011 FFA: Peter Vintoniv and JG, 10 June 2011|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, and Fall|
|Page Views: ||2,418|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011|
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Topo of the 2-4th pitch of the Beast.
|Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>|
From the bivy platform (sheltered, shaded and nice lunch and rope up spot), walk east along the base of the Beast until reaching its lowest point. White colored compact granite similar to that found higher on the creature's face marks the spot.
Pitch #1: An easy bulge past a bolt leads to white rock steep slab past 4 more bolts to easier ground. Climb through fun horizontal sections past 4 more fixed pitons and bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.
From this lower ledge, 3rd class past bushes straight up to gray rock under the white horned creature's neck. 30m
Pitch #2: Casual climbing past 1 bolt leads to a two-bolt belay at the Beast's neck. 5.6, 20m.
Pitch #3: Climb past 10 bolts through and above the left horn up very fun not so beastie moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 45m.
Pitch #4: Climb into the corners of the first roof. 1 piton, 1 bolt, and 1 thread protect the first beastly (pumpy!) bit and then continue up to a left veering hand crack under a steep roof to a bolt and then tip toe right to a two-bolt belay. 5.11a, 30m.
Pitch #5: Move right and around the corner and find easy ground to the top and a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 20m.
Walk off to the west gully.
Although the belays are bolted, most parties upon reaching the top may prefer to walk off to the north and follow a cairned western gully/trail back to the huge roofs sheltering the bivy platform at the feet of the Beast.
QDs, set of C3s and Camalots to #3 and set of Nuts. A few shoulder slings helpful. Belays are bolted.
Beware the poison ivy forest alongside the descent...
Topping the first (of two) burly overhangs on the ...
Top of the second overhang (whew) on the 4th pitch...
The 2nd pitch belay on Beast.
Following the 3rd pitch of Beast.
Crux of the 3rd pitch of Beast.
Slabby crux of the 1st pitch of Beast.
PV slaying the Beast's final pitch
Beast from up canyon of crag approach trail. White...
By Larry Coats
Sep 13, 2011
We really enjoyed this route, and it would easily deserve three stars if not for the bit of third class after the 1st pitch. The quartz inclusions are a bit flaky, but the dark granite is superb (dare I say better than most of Little C?). It was quite visionary of James to check this one out, as it's not very attractive looking from a distance, but turns out to be a great route, and very well equipped. Go do it!
By Daniel Winder
Nov 23, 2012
Don't need any gear until pitch 4. A single rack is more than enough, leave the doubles and C3s home. We accidentally solo'd pitch 2 and pitch 5 is just a short scramble. 3 and 4 are the good pitches. Lots of long slings for 4th pitch is a good idea.
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun enough. The 10b pitch is enjoyable and feels similar to some of the climbing on Beauty. The crux pitch is a little funny: First, I moved the belay up under the steep part of the roof (up and right of the 2-bolt anchor) which seemed like a better place for several reasons. Second, for a route that is otherwise so well equipped, the pin heading up into the steep terrain is weirdly placed and really levers on your biner; there's ways to manage it and the climbing is positive, but it just doesn't fit after the 10 bolts on the previous pitch. Lastly, despite it being short it does zig-zag a bit and so rope drag is a bit of an issue and extending with slings exposes you to ledge falls. Don't get me wrong, this is all manageable and it's totally worth doing if you're there for Beauty anyway, it's just not as good. (Oh and pitch 5 is really 4th class.)