This is one of the classic 5.7 climbs at the Leap that should not be missed.
P1: Start in a short right facing flake for about 20ft, Do a short unprotected traverse up and left to another lieback flake. Continue upwards into a left facing flake system, which will take some larger gear. The short runnout at the beginning of this pitch, though easy climbing, has resulted in a couple helicopter rescues, claimed a few ankles and caused a few good falls over the years. Climb slow and keep under control with an alert and competent belayer, or choose another route until you're 100% confident.
P2: The "reach" pitch. Follow fun cracks and face holds to the large reach. Continue up on solid 5.6 overlaps to a good ledge.
P3: Follow a right leaning crack system with a wide crack over a roof/bulge to the top, or traverse right up a low angle sloping ramp to the top.
gear to 3.5"
|By Keenan Burkley|
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 21, 2014
I had a #5 BD cam and a pair of sunglasses STOLEN from my pack at the bottom of Bears Reach/East Crack on 6/17/14. Other, less desirable gear, (a couple hexes and slings) were left behind along with my pack. There may be shady folks around the leap, beware.
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Apr 18, 2006
One of the funnest 5.7's in you will ever do. It's a classic. Great potection. I didn't have much trouble on the "reach". My wife 5.2' did not have trouble either.
Mar 6, 2008
Not to be missed!!! You are cheating yourself if you go through Tahoe without stopping to do this. Also, check corrugation corner if bears reach has a line; IMHO more intimidating, but very reasonable.
Dan's video is what got me into climbing and getting to do this climb was very exciting for me.
This climbing feels like a 5.7 and gear is good even for chickens like me.
Jul 21, 2008
The reach on P2 isn't so bad, but I was worried while climbing the flakes. They provide a definite lack of security and make this climb a bit heady. Even so, it's jugs nearly all the way up. The 5.9 beached whale finish is a worthy last move at the very top.
|By Tom Johnson|
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Aug 5, 2008
Super fun route. Would have to disagree with Floridaputz about the reach. I'm 5'8" and I struggled to get it! Still doable, but it takes a bit more creativity to stand up high enough. And if you're used to sandstone, tapping on all those hollow flakes will scare the crap out of you.
|By Bruce Willey|
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 24, 2008
The .9 finish is not to be missed. With all that liebacking below, it adds something really special to the end.
|By bob branscomb|
From: Lander, WY
Apr 1, 2009
Where else but Lover's Leap can you be on a 5.7 and look straight to the deck for 300 feet between your heels? Great route.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 23, 2009
I'm 5'6" and have a negative ape index; I didn't feel the reach was that bad. In fact, I wasn't even sure I had climbed the "reachy" part until I was done with the pitch.
|By Wesley Ashwood|
From: Squamish, BC
Jul 20, 2009
Great route! The reach is fun with plenty of good feet is you are not as lanky as someone like me. The 5.9 move at the top is definetely worth it, though it felt a little more than a 5.9 after waiting at the 2nd belay for 45 minutes for a group from east face to finish up. Its worth bringing 2 sets of cams, I had to run things out a little more than I would have liked.
|By Tim Camuti|
From: Placerville, CA
Aug 16, 2009
Not worth the hype.
The climbing was unremarkable and the high number of rotten flakes meant that I trusted only about 3 pieces of pro per pitch. I was comfortable on the climb, but the poor rock condition greatly diminished any "classic" value this has. Many better climbs on the East Wall.
Aug 24, 2010
A great 5.7.
From: grass valley, ca
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
the reach is real; trouble is up to you
more places are no good for pro than usual here, still protectable
|By Phil McAllister|
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The reach isn't so bad. i'm 5ft8in - the obvious holds are the flakes (i was expecting the reach to be between two huge jugs bit flakes') my arms were just a little bit too short - until i got my feet on the much smaller face holds - they're allover the right side of the 'reach holds' and perfectly decent holds.
Jul 15, 2013
Not sure which move was the "reach". For a 5'10"+ climber there was nothing "reachy". Besides with all the fixed gear on the 2nd pitch, the crux was kind of like a sport route.. :-). I felt the hardest move was at ~30ft off the ground on the first pitch.
From: Denver, CO
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some of the most unique climbing I've ever done. A must do for sure. I was pretty exhausted from the 9 pitches I'd done in the last 24 hours (with minimal sleep), so the burly moves were more of a chore than fun at that point. But I can see how this is a classic! I almost lost my precious #3 C4 on this route as well. So yeah, I need to try it again - fresh and without pesky stuck cams!
|By Logan Swartz|
From: Davis, CA
Sep 9, 2013
Watched a guy deck yesterday while I was belaying from the base of Scimitar. I had a cell phone so we helped call 911 and he got helicoptered out. I think he might just end up with broken ribs. He luckily landed on the cleared off sand patch instead of the talice. He fell on the left facing flake 3 pieces up ~40ft up on the first pitch. He pulled a cam from the flake and a nut. I haven't climbed it but from looking at it and word of mouth beta I think he probably was wailing on the flake he placed the piece of gear in. So be careful with those flakes they maybe wobbily!! Also he bumped his head and his belayer got hit in the head by the cam he blew! The climber was not wearing a helmet! Wear helmets!!
From: San Francisco, California
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I recommend climbing very delicately on this route. Spread out body weight and try not to yank with all of your might. Use dikes and face holds over hollow flakes if you can. As a local told us, those flakes do come off. The reach move isn't bad at all (5'7" climber here). If you've ever climbed small face holds in a gym or on a sport climb, there's a few of these you can use, then it's just a small hop up to grab the jugs. If you're going to clip any of the half-dozen or so stuck gear pieces, just check them first. The 5.9 finish is fun. I pulled on the left corner with both hands, put both feet out on the left wall, used friction on the top with my left hand and then heaved my ass up and plopped it down on the corner to avoid the beached whale. A #4 will protect the move.
|By Ted Sumers|
4 days ago
IMO this climb is really overrated. The start's kinda runout; the first pitch is full of terrifying hollow flakes and the first anchor is a complete POS.
The second pitch has some fun movement, but not enough to make up for the first, and the one-move-wonder third pitch is shared with several other classic lines, so you'll definitely get to do it another day.
I'm not surprised people solo this-- I kind of felt like I was, and my followers were, too.