Bear's Reach 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Berry and Linnett, 1956 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006 |
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The runout section on the first pitch...
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.
Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map
Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is one of the classic 5.7 climbs at the Leap that should not be missed.
P1: Start in a short RF dihedral for 20ft, run it out to the left until you hit a lieback flake. Continue upwards into a LF flake system, which will take some larger gear.
P2: The "reach" pitch. Follow fun cracks and face holds to the large reach. Continue up on solid 5.6 overlaps to a good ledge.
P3: Follow a right leaning crack system with a roof to the top.
Protection gear to 3.5"
Jim Bridwell on "Bear's Reach".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Charleen on "Bear's Reach", first pitch.
Photo by ...
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BETA PHOTO: Brett making his way up the flake section on the ...
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BETA PHOTO: Jason just after the "Bear's Reach" move and headi...
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BETA PHOTO: Anne starting up the 2nd pitch
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BETA PHOTO: The 2nd pitch of Bear's reach
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just below the bear's reach move
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Bear's Reach.
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Dana starts up the Bear's Reach.
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Dana a bit higher on P1 of Bear's Reach.
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Be forewarned, 3 popular routes converge at this b...
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BETA PHOTO: Bear's Reach. I've only climbed it once, so let m...
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The direct finish.
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heading up the first pitch
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Looking down the steep and dreamy 2nd pitch
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All smiles on the first pitch.
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Reaching on Bear's Reach.
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Second pitch above the "reach".
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Second pitch of Bear's reach, nearing "The Bushy L...
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1st Pitch! Great climb!
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By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Apr 18, 2006
| One of the funnest 5.7's in you will ever do. It's a classic. Great potection. I didn't have much trouble on the "reach". My wife 5.2' did not have trouble either. |
By Evan1984
Mar 6, 2008
| Not to be missed!!! You are cheating yourself if you go through Tahoe without stopping to do this. Also, check corrugation corner if bears reach has a line; IMHO more intimidating, but very reasonable.
Dan's video is what got me into climbing and getting to do this climb was very exciting for me.
This climbing feels like a 5.7 and gear is good even for chickens like me. |
By GMBurns
Jul 21, 2008
| The reach on P2 isn't so bad, but I was worried while climbing the flakes. They provide a definite lack of security and make this climb a bit heady. Even so, it's jugs nearly all the way up. The 5.9 beached whale finish is a worthy last move at the very top. |
By Tom Johnson
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Aug 5, 2008
| Super fun route. Would have to disagree with Floridaputz about the reach. I'm 5'8" and I struggled to get it! Still doable, but it takes a bit more creativity to stand up high enough. And if you're used to sandstone, tapping on all those hollow flakes will scare the crap out of you. |
By Bruce Willey
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 24, 2008
| The .9 finish is not to be missed. With all that liebacking below, it adds something really special to the end. |
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Apr 1, 2009
| Where else but Lover's Leap can you be on a 5.7 and look straight to the deck for 300 feet between your heels? Great route. |
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 23, 2009
| I'm 5'6" and have a negative ape index; I didn't feel the reach was that bad. In fact, I wasn't even sure I had climbed the "reachy" part until I was done with the pitch. |
By Wesley Ashwood
From: Durango, CO
Jul 20, 2009
| Great route! The reach is fun with plenty of good feet is you are not as lanky as someone like me. The 5.9 move at the top is definetely worth it, though it felt a little more than a 5.9 after waiting at the 2nd belay for 45 minutes for a group from east face to finish up. Its worth bringing 2 sets of cams, I had to run things out a little more than I would have liked. |
By Tim Camuti
From: Placerville, CA
Aug 16, 2009
| Not worth the hype.
The climbing was unremarkable and the high number of rotten flakes meant that I trusted only about 3 pieces of pro per pitch. I was comfortable on the climb, but the poor rock condition greatly diminished any "classic" value this has. Many better climbs on the East Wall. |
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010
| A great 5.7. |
By anthony509
From: grass valley, ca
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| the reach is real; trouble is up to you
more places are no good for pro than usual here, still protectable |
By Phil McAllister
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.7
| The reach isn't so bad. i'm 5ft8in - the obvious holds are the flakes (i was expecting the reach to be between two huge jugs bit flakes') my arms were just a little bit too short - until i got my feet on the much smaller face holds - they're allover the right side of the 'reach holds' and perfectly decent holds. |
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