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Bear's Reach 
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Bear's Reach 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Berry and Linnett, 1956
Page Views: 17,893
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006
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The runout section on the first pitch...
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Description 

This is one of the classic 5.7 climbs at the Leap that should not be missed.

P1: Start in a short RF dihedral for 20ft, run it out to the left until you hit a lieback flake. Continue upwards into a LF flake system, which will take some larger gear.

P2: The "reach" pitch. Follow fun cracks and face holds to the large reach. Continue up on solid 5.6 overlaps to a good ledge.

P3: Follow a right leaning crack system with a roof to the top.


Protection 

gear to 3.5"



Photos of Bear's Reach Slideshow Add Photo
Bear's Reach.
Bear's Reach.
Reaching on Bear's Reach.
Reaching on Bear's Reach.
1st Pitch! Great climb!
1st Pitch! Great climb!
Jason just after the "Bear's Reach" move and heading up the stellar second pitch of the Bear's reach
BETA PHOTO: Jason just after the "Bear's Reach" move and headi...
heading up the first pitch
heading up the first pitch
Anne starting up the 2nd pitch
BETA PHOTO: Anne starting up the 2nd pitch
Bear's Reach.  I've only climbed it once, so let me know if I made any mistakes.  You can see the two belays with two people on each.  Fun route, but super crowded on a summer weekend.
BETA PHOTO: Bear's Reach. I've only climbed it once, so let m...
The 2nd pitch of Bear's reach
BETA PHOTO: The 2nd pitch of Bear's reach
All smiles on the first pitch.
All smiles on the first pitch.
just below the bear's reach move
just below the bear's reach move
Be forewarned, 3 popular routes converge at this belay ledge.
Be forewarned, 3 popular routes converge at this b...
Second pitch above the "reach".
Second pitch above the "reach".
The direct finish.
The direct finish.
Charleen on "Bear's Reach", first pitch. <br />Photo by Bill Serniuk.
Charleen on "Bear's Reach", first pitch.
Photo by ...
Looking down the steep and dreamy 2nd pitch
Looking down the steep and dreamy 2nd pitch
Jim Bridwell on "Bear's Reach". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Jim Bridwell on "Bear's Reach".
Photo by Blitzo.
Brett making his way up the flake section  on the first pitch of Bear's reach
BETA PHOTO: Brett making his way up the flake section on the ...
Dana starts up the Bear's Reach.
Dana starts up the Bear's Reach.
Second pitch of Bear's reach, nearing "The Bushy Ledge"
Second pitch of Bear's reach, nearing "The Bushy L...
Dana a bit higher on P1 of Bear's Reach.
Dana a bit higher on P1 of Bear's Reach.
Comments on Bear's Reach Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 9, 2013
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Apr 18, 2006

One of the funnest 5.7's in you will ever do. It's a classic. Great potection. I didn't have much trouble on the "reach". My wife 5.2' did not have trouble either.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 1, 2006

Watch in disbelief as the late Dan Osman free solos the 400' route

!).

By Evan1984
Mar 6, 2008

Not to be missed!!! You are cheating yourself if you go through Tahoe without stopping to do this. Also, check corrugation corner if bears reach has a line; IMHO more intimidating, but very reasonable.

Dan's video is what got me into climbing and getting to do this climb was very exciting for me.

This climbing feels like a 5.7 and gear is good even for chickens like me.

By GMBurns
Jul 21, 2008

The reach on P2 isn't so bad, but I was worried while climbing the flakes. They provide a definite lack of security and make this climb a bit heady. Even so, it's jugs nearly all the way up. The 5.9 beached whale finish is a worthy last move at the very top.

By Tom Johnson
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Aug 5, 2008

Super fun route. Would have to disagree with Floridaputz about the reach. I'm 5'8" and I struggled to get it! Still doable, but it takes a bit more creativity to stand up high enough. And if you're used to sandstone, tapping on all those hollow flakes will scare the crap out of you.

By Bruce Willey
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 24, 2008

The .9 finish is not to be missed. With all that liebacking below, it adds something really special to the end.

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Apr 1, 2009

Where else but Lover's Leap can you be on a 5.7 and look straight to the deck for 300 feet between your heels? Great route.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 23, 2009

I'm 5'6" and have a negative ape index; I didn't feel the reach was that bad. In fact, I wasn't even sure I had climbed the "reachy" part until I was done with the pitch.

By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Jul 20, 2009

Great route! The reach is fun with plenty of good feet is you are not as lanky as someone like me. The 5.9 move at the top is definetely worth it, though it felt a little more than a 5.9 after waiting at the 2nd belay for 45 minutes for a group from east face to finish up. Its worth bringing 2 sets of cams, I had to run things out a little more than I would have liked.

By Tim Camuti
From: Placerville, CA
Aug 16, 2009

Not worth the hype.
The climbing was unremarkable and the high number of rotten flakes meant that I trusted only about 3 pieces of pro per pitch. I was comfortable on the climb, but the poor rock condition greatly diminished any "classic" value this has. Many better climbs on the East Wall.

By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

A great 5.7.

By anthony509
From: grass valley, ca
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

the reach is real; trouble is up to you
more places are no good for pro than usual here, still protectable

By Phil McAllister
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The reach isn't so bad. i'm 5ft8in - the obvious holds are the flakes (i was expecting the reach to be between two huge jugs bit flakes') my arms were just a little bit too short - until i got my feet on the much smaller face holds - they're allover the right side of the 'reach holds' and perfectly decent holds.

By Mitchell Rhodes
Apr 11, 2013

On-sight free-solo. Jugtastic.

By grega
Jul 15, 2013

Not sure which move was the "reach". For a 5'10"+ climber there was nothing "reachy". Besides with all the fixed gear on the 2nd pitch, the crux was kind of like a sport route.. :-). I felt the hardest move was at ~30ft off the ground on the first pitch.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Some of the most unique climbing I've ever done. A must do for sure. I was pretty exhausted from the 9 pitches I'd done in the last 24 hours (with minimal sleep), so the burly moves were more of a chore than fun at that point. But I can see how this is a classic! I almost lost my precious #3 C4 on this route as well. So yeah, I need to try it again - fresh and without pesky stuck cams!

By Logan Swartz
Sep 9, 2013

Watched a guy deck yesterday while I was belaying from the base of Scimitar. I had a cell phone so we helped call 911 and he got helicoptered out. I think he might just end up with broken ribs. He luckily landed on the cleared off sand patch instead of the talice. He fell on the left facing flake 3 pieces up ~40ft up on the first pitch. He pulled a cam from the flake and a nut. I haven't climbed it but from looking at it and word of mouth beta I think he probably was wailing on the flake he placed the piece of gear in. So be careful with those flakes they maybe wobbily!! Also he bumped his head and his belayer got hit in the head by the cam he blew! The climber was not wearing a helmet! Wear helmets!!