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Bears in Heat offers a little bit of everything (and it was just cleaned fairly well!) The first pitch follows a zig-zagging crack that forces you to be creative, lie-backing, high-stepping, etc. The pitch takes a lot of smaller gear (mainly cams). The second pitch is BEAUTIFUL and begins with the amazing "bear hug," which eventually gives way to a brilliant just-off-hands-crack (too small at the start and too wide at the top!) From the anchors at the top of the crack keep going by stepping right into the dihedral of Flying Dutchman and finishing at the large grassy ledges. Pitch one is roughly 11b/c and pitch two is roughly 11a. A fantastic route, especially when it sees more traffic. Get on it.
The route begins the same as for Flying Dutchman (past three pitons). From the third, step left and into the zig-zagging crack system. There is an anchor set up where the route begins after the initial movement left. It is just right of the second tunnel.
Full set of stoppers. Cams doubled/tripled from Metolius #1 to Metolius #4. Singles from #5 - #9.
|Comments on Bears in Heat
Aug 25, 2011
This climb is full value.