Bear's Choice 5.10
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Kirk Miller, Justin Winger |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Kirk Miller on Aug 16, 2009 |
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Bear's Choice.
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Description The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire.... If you make Bear's Choice and pull for the left side, you'll be rewarded with a tricky .10 roof crux. Bail right and finish on Box of Rain for an easier alternative. Take care to get clipped from the rail before attempting the crux. If you fall from the rail before you're clipped, you'll hit the slab below and likely break your ankle.
Location This is left of Box of Rain, it shares a start with Cut Loose.
Protection 8 bolts to chains.
Crux on Bear's Choice.
| Simon above the roof. Photo by Myong Moon.
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| Comments on Bear's Choice |
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By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 17, 2009
| Kirk, Kirk, Kirk is on fire!! :) |
By Tom R From: Denver, CO Aug 19, 2009
| I've been trying to "climb this crag out". But every time I turn around, Kirk adds another route. I'll be up there tomorrow to check out Bear's Choice. Canal Zone has shaped up to be a great crag for moderates. |
By Doug Redosh From: golden, CO Sep 16, 2009
| It is very easy to bail out right to the 5.8 climb at the overhang, therefore it seemed a bit contrived. Otherwise, a nice route. Good movement above the hang as well, and the lower moves off the ground felt 9/10ish. |
By Dan Stackhouse From: Lakewood, CO Sep 18, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| This route was a fun problem my first lead. I fell three times on the roof, then Jesse Reeves told me how to do it, and then it wasn't bad. Got a redpoint lead. Used a sideways crimper past the chalky triangle to pull myself over the roof. Jesse Reeves is a badass. |
By Dave Clark 5.10 From: Golden, CO Nov 23, 2009 rating: 5.10a
| Good route for those pushing their limit at 5.10. Well protected with options at roof from 10b on left to 8+ on right. Still challenging above roof. Kudos to Canal Zone, Kirk. |
By mikejohnson1 From: Essex Junction, VT May 7, 2010
| You can use the first few bolts of this route to skip the crux of box of rain, making for a nice 5.7. Just clip the first 5 bolts and move right. Regardless of which route you choose, bring a long draw (or put two draws together) for the bolt before the roof. This reduces rope drag a lot. |
By Robert Buswold From: Longmont, CO Sep 6, 2011 rating: 5.10a
| This is a fun route, but the roof itself didn't feel like the crux for me. Anyone else think the face after the roof was a bit harder? |
By nick patton May 15, 2013
| Really fun climb with great holds. I agree, Robert, that the face after the roof was a little harder but can't wait to climb it again. |
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