|Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
So named because of the bear that bore witness the first ascent. Climb a rounded arete (bolt) past a bulge and onto a slopey ledge. Use a long sling to clip the second bolt, and step right along the ledge. Climb up to the huge ledge below the roof. Pull the roof on the right, at the left facing corner. Follow bolts up the slightly overhanging rock to the top. Bolted anchor. A variation continues straight up the arete to the big ledge.
About 30' right of Azucar, past a mossy short cliff. Start below a grey bolt on the large rounded arete at the left edge of the main wall. There is wide broken crack about 6' left of the arete.
Sport. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
|By Joe Grossmann|
Oct 22, 2012
Getting to the first slopey ledge was the crux for me. Felt solid 5.10 if you use the arete only. Though it felt reasonable to me, to use the other side of the wide crack and chimney up to the ledge. This lowers the difficulty to somewhere around 5.8, but also involves high ground fall potential.
The upper roof section felt more like 5.9 to me.
My favourite climb of the day since I wasn't able to make it past the thin face moves on Azucar and Crotalid was soaking