Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,568 ft
GPS: 33.68234, -112.04283
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 146,991 total · 669/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Feb 27, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

The Beardsley Boulders area, a vast pile of granite boulders found on a desert peak in north Phoenix, is one of most accessible climbing spots in the metro area for those looking to rough up fingertips during a quick mid-week session. A multi-purpose spot, Beardsley has alternately served as a party spot for high schoolers, frustrated "artists" with spray cans or full buckets of paint, a dump spot for people looking to rid themselves of excess trash, glass and mattresses, and a long-time bouldering spot for Phoenix rock climbers. For the last few decades, climbers have periodically attempted to clean up some of the mess wreaked on the place by less caring user groups, with spotty results. In the late '90's or early 00's, the area was actually taken over and turned into some sort of recreational area, but I can't seem to find a citation as to who the managing government entity is that oversees the area. This is relatively good news, as most of the network of old dirt roads into the area have had their access blocked, which helps limit the abuse to the area. [Edit: This land is owned by the City of Phoenix and managed by Phoenix Parks and Recreation Department.]

Rock climbers have long practiced their craft on the coarse desert granite boulders found at Beardsley, like the Wiley Thompson Boulder and the Pencil Thin Boulder, creating many boulder problems that run the grades from easy 5th class up into the V7 range. Although the bulk of Beardsley's problems are relatively moderate in grade, you might find the grading somewhat hard for a given rating. In addition to the myriad of problems, there are even a few roped routes found on the larger formations found on the hillside above the main boulder field.

The latest info for the area (pick one up at one of the area REIs or the Hiking Shack) is a one-sheet guide published in 2017 by Marty Karabin, that features over 100 problems and nearly 30 roped routes.

HEADS UP: In early 2021, Phoenix Parks and Recreation rangers discovered several boulders that show evidence of having holds chipped into the rock. They have asked the climbing community to note that this is not allowed in any City of Phoenix park or preserve. Please be mindful when developing routes, because continued damage could result in loss of access at Beardsley and, potentially, other Phoenix Parks sites.

Getting There Suggest change

To get there go to the intersection of the 101 and Cave Creek, from there go north on Cave Creek for about a 0.5 miles, then make a left onto Lone Cactus Road, continuing on the road until you reach a parking lot (the road will dead end there). From the parking area it will be obvous where the climbing is. All of the boulder problems are on or below the main mountain, just walk towards that vicinity and there will be a wide range of problems from V0-V10

DO NOT CHIP BOULDERS!!!!!

Suggest change

Please note: In early 2021, Phoenix Parks and Recreation rangers discovered several boulders that show evidence of having holds chipped into the rock. They have asked the climbing community to note that this is not allowed in any City of Phoenix park or preserve, and has been considered a repugnant practice for climbers for decades!! Please be mindful when developing routes, because continued damage could result in loss of access at Beardsley and, potentially, other Phoenix Parks sites.

272 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Beardsley Boulders Area Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Beardsley Boulders Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3
 5
The Big Slab
Boulder
V0-1 4+
 21
Assorted Goods
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 7
Wave Crack
Boulder
V3 6A
 28
Pencil Thin, Right Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 41
The Prow
Boulder
V3 6A
 23
Monkey Lust
Boulder
V4 6B
 22
Brush My Reach
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 19
Fingertip Mantle
Boulder
V5 6C
 41
Pencil Thin Flake
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 23
Thumb of Power
Boulder
V6 7A
 15
Das Boot
Boulder
V6 7A
 40
Smokey Desperado and the Sunshin…
Boulder
V6 7A
 9
Smoke this Desperado
Boulder
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 5
Snake Pit ArĂȘte
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
 4
Unnamed V3
TR, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Big Slab Beardsley Bould… > e-Boulders > Big Slab
 5
V-easy 3 Boulder
Assorted Goods Beardsley Bould… > Assorted Goods Boulder
 21
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Wave Crack Beardsley Bould… > Frontier Boulde… > Wave Crack Boulder
 7
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Pencil Thin, Right Arete Beardsley Bould… > Pencil Thin Boulder
 28
V3 6A Boulder
The Prow Beardsley Bould… > Pencil Thin Boulder
 41
V3 6A Boulder
Monkey Lust Beardsley Bould… > Monkey Lust Boulder
 23
V3 6A Boulder
Brush My Reach Beardsley Bould… > Egg
 22
V4 6B Boulder
Fingertip Mantle Beardsley Bould… > Wiley Thompson Boulder
 19
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Pencil Thin Flake Beardsley Bould… > Pencil Thin Boulder
 41
V5 6C Boulder
Thumb of Power Beardsley Bould… > Egg
 23
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
Das Boot Beardsley Bould… > Wiley Thompson Boulder
 15
V6 7A Boulder
Smokey Desperado and the Su… Beardsley Bould… > Sunshine Boulder
 40
V6 7A Boulder
Smoke this Desperado Beardsley Bould… > Sunshine Boulder
 9
V6 7A Boulder
Snake Pit ArĂȘte Beardsley Roped Routes
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Sport, TR
Unnamed V3 Beardsley Bould… > Problems on Unnamed B…
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A TR, Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Beardsley Boulders Area »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading