Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Beardsley Boulders

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anarchy Crack T 
Asscrack, The 
Assorted Goods 
Beer Belly 
Brown Sugar S 
Classic Orange 
Double Clutch 
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 
Fingertip Mantle 
Flake, The TR 
Frosted Flakes 
Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 
gripper, The S 
Hamstring 
Hot Sweaty Buns S 
Mantle Puss 
Monkey Lust 
Mr. Mantle 
Naked Bimbos from Mars T 
Pencil Thin 
Pencil Thin Flake 
Pencil Thin, Right Arete 
Perforator right 
Prow, The 
Sharpie 
Short N' Easy 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 
Unnamed V3 TR 
Virgin, The 
Whales Back 
Wiley Left 
Wiley Right 
Wolf Jr. 
Unsorted Routes:

Beardsley Boulders Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 33.68234, -112.04284 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,833
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Foster on Feb 27, 2006
Forecast:
Today

88° | 70°
Tuesday

87° | 71°
Wednesday

91° | 72°
Thursday

93° | 72°
Friday

92° | 71°
Saturday

92° | 70°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

If you are in the Phoenix area and want to do some quick bouldering or some routes Beardsly is probably the best choice. The rock is a composite granite - sharp stuff man. There are about 17 routes and over 40 boulder problems (from v0-v7?); all of the boulder problems are on the east side of the mountain.

Getting There 

To get there go to the intersection of the 101 and Cave Creek, from there go north on Cave Creek for about a 0.5 miles, then make a left onto Lone Cactus Road, continuing on the road until you reach a parking lot (the road will dead end there). From the parking area it will be obvous where the climbing is. All of the boulder problems are on or below the main mountain, just walk towards that vicinity and there will be a wide range of problems from v0-v11.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',8],['V2-3',12],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Beardsley Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Beardsley Boulders:
Classic Orange   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   
Monkey Lust   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   
The Prow   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   
Double Clutch   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   
Pencil Thin, Right Arete   V4 6B     Boulder, 14'   
Fingertip Mantle   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 12'   
Pencil Thin Flake   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   
Naked Bimbos from Mars   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Brown Sugar   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The gripper   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Beardsley Boulders

Featured Route For Beardsley Boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out. good perspective on its height

Unnamed V3 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Beardsley Boulders
Karabin's pocket guide calls it V3(TR) due to the (at the time) bad landing. Problem was later retro bolted and subsequently chopped.Problem is the furthest left problem on the boulder. Start low move to rail, somewhat beta intensive crux on sharp holds followed by a big reach to a crimp rail. Keep your head together and top out on jugs....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Beardsley Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great route on the south side of the first large b...
Great route on the south side of the first large b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fear Wall? Great crack traverse with a couple stif...
BETA PHOTO: Fear Wall? Great crack traverse with a couple stif...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Boulder to end all boulders - Great problems o...
The Boulder to end all boulders - Great problems o...
Rock Climbing Photo: With the lights from the industrial park, Beardsle...
With the lights from the industrial park, Beardsle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't have a name for this rock its about 8 feet t...
Don't have a name for this rock its about 8 feet t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumpy boulder
Pumpy boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: up on the hill fun crack boulder
up on the hill fun crack boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: about 7 feet tall
about 7 feet tall
Rock Climbing Photo: About 16 feet tall
About 16 feet tall
Rock Climbing Photo: rock on the right is about 16 feet tall
rock on the right is about 16 feet tall
Rock Climbing Photo: about 13 something feet tall
about 13 something feet tall
Rock Climbing Photo: I call this slide rock as its smooth and makes a g...
I call this slide rock as its smooth and makes a g...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side of "Split Boulders", looking ...
BETA PHOTO: Right side of "Split Boulders", looking ...
Rock Climbing Photo: about 14 feet tall
about 14 feet tall
Rock Climbing Photo: Spiders Boulder, left side is "Spiders from M...
BETA PHOTO: Spiders Boulder, left side is "Spiders from M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of "Lower Main Area". Climbs inc...
BETA PHOTO: Picture of "Lower Main Area". Climbs inc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Really fun crack up by the routes
Really fun crack up by the routes
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Fear Rock' and 'Lower main area' as seen from nea...
BETA PHOTO: 'Fear Rock' and 'Lower main area' as seen from nea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beardsley bouldering
Beardsley bouldering
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck Norris sleeping (kinda spotting). This was s...
Chuck Norris sleeping (kinda spotting). This was s...

Comments on Beardsley Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By azagthoth
Nov 11, 2009
where is the v11?
By Eric Foster
From: Nashville, TN
Dec 18, 2011
I think I may have made an error on the V11. Can someone tell me what the hardest grade is out here? I will update it.
By Scott Z
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jan 21, 2012
Karabin guide has V6 as the hardest problems. However that guide was circa 1994.
By Eli Buzzell
From: Lives in a 4runner
Jan 3, 2015
I came here and did some boulder problems that I couldn't find on mountain project I'll post the photos of them and see if anyone can identify them with names and grades, I found it less than easy to find some of the established problems, but had a good time. There is a lot of broken glass here!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!