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First Rock
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Bear Tooth 
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Bear Tooth 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Sep 5, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Bear Tooth

Description 

A nice left-facing layback and jam corner on the West side of First Rock. The first 30' is the goods, with excellent protection. Above this, the rock quality and protection disappear entirely. Expect mossy, lichenous, hummocky slab climbing with ZERO pro on the upper half of the route. I think one could potentially take a grounder if they fell from up top while leading. A heads up lead.


Protection 

A set of cams from fingers to 3-4" will sew up the bottom half nicely. A very long runner or cord could be used to sling the massive flake atop the corner. Don't expect any gear after that. Another long cordelette to sling a massive horn for the top anchor.


Location 

On the West (or NW?) side of First Rock. Traverse the gravelly ledge system on the south side past the other routes, to a small notch. The route is obvious from here.



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By Richard Shore
Sep 5, 2012

This route could benefit greatly from a pair of bolts with rap rings/mussy hooks atop the large flake at the end of the corner. I suspect most people end up TR'ing this line due to the crap on the upper half.